:: FEATURE

The scent of clover

While 2003's Spring/Summer outfits are hitting the catwalks, the temperature outside is still plummeting. So we took the best of Clover - Hisui's current Autumn/Winter collection and a trip to Kamakura, and the results speak for themselves. Snug as well as sexy. Put them on your Xmas list early. Ito took time out to discuss her recent works with Martin Webb.

Things are hectic at the Harajuku atelier of Hiroko Ito, designer of arty Japanese brand Hisui. In the weeks immediately after her Spring/Summer 2003 collection show this busy creator/businesswoman is entertaining buyers, press, loyal customers and fellow designers who are all dropping by to check out her latest creations for themselves.

Besides the brand's signature psychedelic, swirling graphic prints and geometric motifs, it is a liberating versatility that has made Hisui, meaning 'jade' in Japanese, a big hit with both stylish Japanese girls and international buyers (including those from exclusive London boutique, Brown's). Hisui's ingeniously placed buttons, zips and drawstrings ensure each outfit allows for adjustment, and thereby self-expression. "I see my clothes as communication tools" says Ito, "I try to incorporate some freedom for the wearer into every item."

Ito graduated from New York's F.I.T. college and, until establishing Hisui in 1998, worked at Japanese uber-brand Commes des Garcons. Contributing to this cult brand's credibility is its position at the forefront of Tokyo's new layered style movement and a reputation for cutting-edge collaborations with Tokyo artists. The show for the current collection, entitled 'Clover', was held in a purpose-built installation space. Models wore two-ply punch-out skirts over pants, and apron-like dresses on top of delicate knits. For last month's Spring/Summer 2003 collection, artist Takeshi Matsuoka constructed an enormous tilting platform that shifted with the models' weight - the collection was named 'Uncertain Balance'. The latest collection has taken Hisui in a new direction, according to Ito."Clover is very warm, very sensual" she says, zipping up the jacket she is wearing, "next year's clothes are a meeting of my vision of grown-up casual and Harajuku street style."

With strong links to Tokyo's contemporary art scene, Ito is enthusiastic about the collaborations with Tokyo artists she has been involved with this year. Aside from using designs by illustrator and artist Kida Oikawa to decorate camisole T-shirts for Uncertain Balance, Hisui is also involved with a new gallery space in Tokyo's Minami Aoyama - 'eels BeD gallery'. Curated by fashion collective Ambiance, stuffed toys made with fabrics developed by Japanese designers will be exhibited until the end of January. "These collaborations have been a really positive influence on me this year, go and check out the exhibition and you'll be excited too," urges Ito. With the promise of more funky fusions of fashion and art in the works, Ito is a creator well worth watching out for.

Photographer: Anatole Papafilippou
Hair & make-up: Kuwano
Styling: Martin Webb
Model: Chiaki Oshima

Hisui is available in Tokyo at:
Le Shop, La Place, 3-13-21 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3475-7770
and in Osaka at:
Gallarda Galante, Crysta Nagahori,
Tel: 06-6282-2187.
eels BeD gallery is at the same address as Le Shop.