:: FEATURE

Slick Picks for Snow-jos

Japan has such a huge choice of mountains for snowboarders and skiers that the main problem everyone faces is - where to go?

With officially over 500 resorts throughout Japan, there is an abundant choice for riders of all skill levels.

Whether you are a snowboarder or a skier, a complete beginner of an advanced mogul rider, there's something out there just for you.

　

Copyright Matt Cheetham 2002

The experience

Of course, this being Japan, you might expect some interesting differences in the snow-sports experience from that overseas. If so, you won't be disappointed.

For one thing, you'll need to prepare yourself for a constant bombardment of J-pop (or sometimes 80s rock and such delights as Wham's Last Christmas - in February) coming from speakers all over the mountain - even from the top.

For many Japanese, the boarding or skiing weekend trip is not just about riding the snow.

Enjoying every aspect of the snow trip is top priority - eating, drinking, karaoke, and perhaps above all, onsen.

One of the really great things about many resorts in Japan is that they double up as traditional onsen resorts.

There's nothing quite like soaking in an onsen after an energetic day on the slopes.

Apres-ski - what apres-ski?

Apart from the onsen though, apres-ski in Japan generally leaves something to be desired.

It seems that so much energy is consumed on the mountains that there is little interest in raving it up at nighttime.

There are exceptions, but for the most part don't expect wild bar nights, discos and clubs come nighttime.

The choice will more realistically be - restaurants, hotel bars and karaoke boxes.

The cost

You might expect a trip to the slopes to be expensive in Japan, but prices for lift tickets are quite comparable to those in other snow-sport countries.

The main ticket choices at most resorts are the 1 day ticket (usually \3600-5000), half day ticket (usually \2500-3000) and "nighter" ticket.

"Nighter" tickets (for floodlit slopes from about five or six o'clock until about nine in the evening) generally go for about \2000.

Night riding is usually limited to a few floodlit runs and in some cases just one run, and after a sunny day, the slopes can often resemble an inclined ice rink.

On the other hand, the slopes tend to be far less crowded than in the daytime.

Probably the most expensive parts of a trip will be getting there and staying in the hotel, so planning in advance is recommended.

The cheapest way, if you don't have your own transportation, is one of the countless package deals that are detailed in reams of pamphlets at your local travel shop, and in magazines (hint: Jaran magazine's ski issue is particularly useful).

Deals include transportation by bus (expect to be woken several times for leg-stretching breaks on an overnighter) or train (much more civilized, but more expensive) and the hotel room, and may or may not include a lift pass, equipment hire (call and check they have boots your size if your feet are over size 30), at least one meal, use of an onsen, and so on.

Prices start at around \15,000 for 1 night/2 days, but you get what you pay for.

Expect to pay at least \25,000 for reasonable comfort, decent slopes, and no significant hidden extras.

So get out there!

If you're still deciding whether to take up a snow riding sport as a complete beginner (hint: snowboarding is much easier to learn than skiing - half a day even without tuition should be enough), you're in luck.

At Japanese resorts, beginners are generally better catered for than experts.

Most resorts have at least a few easy slopes for you to fall over on relatively safely.

The bottom line is that you're in Japan, the slopes are fairly nearby (wherever you live) and whether you're a hardcore boarder or a complete beginner, there's no better way to spend your free time in winter.

Now on to Scene's selection of mid-Japan's slickest slopes...

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Nagano

　

YAMADA BOKUJO

Yamada Bokujyo
Tiny, never crowded and clean, but best of all, barely patrolled - fun for the more experienced. Dirt cheap cross-country ski trips are also available, and for toddlers and over-the-hill parents, the Yamada Onsen area down the mountain is ideal, where one "lift" is just a big sledge towed up the gentle slope. The area is packed with onsen too, one of the most unusual being Yamada Bokujo's Redwood Inn, where the outdoor tubs are made from the trunk of an American Redwood.

Asama 2000 Park
At 2000 meters, this place usually offers great snow conditions on par with more famous places. Asama is about 40 minutes from Komoro IC in southern Nagano Prefecture.

Fujimi Panorama
Not a big resort but never crowded and some good views to be had. Take the gondola up to the top for a nice long ride down.

Sugadaira
Sugadaira is essentially three areas together, and it is one of the few resorts that offers heliskiing. Caution - snow conditions can vary, but go after a fresh dump of snow and you should be happy. Nice views of Asamayama volcano.

Nozawa Onsen, north east Nagano
One of the biggies, but it has to have a mention. Apart from the great skiing, be sure to check out the many traditional public onsen located in this charming little village. One of the best Japan has to offer.

　

KIJIMADAERA

Kijimadaira, north east Nagano
Kijimadaira was one of the first resorts in Japan to open its slopes up to snowboarders when the rest were shunning them. It is located close to Nozawa Onsen and is a good alternative to its more famous neighbour. Beginners will stay near the bottom of the hill, but advanced riders are treated to one of the steepest runs in Japan near the top of the mountain - you can't miss it!

Madarao Kogen/ Tangram Ski Circus, border of Nagano and Niigata
Madarao Kogen and Tangram Resort are located on opposite sides of the same mountain, about 40 minutes ride from Nagano and in the same area as Nozawa and Kijimadaira. While they are separate resorts, there is a ticket that covers both, which is highly recommended. Decent snow and a good choice of runs make this area a good alternative to some of the more crowded resorts in the area.

Shiga

Biwako Valley, west of Biwako lake
Biwako Valley deserves a mention because it's just an hour on the train from Kyoto and you can have a good day here if the snow and wind cooperate, although it can get really crowded. Check the weather before you go, because even in mid-season this place sometimes closes half of the runs.

Ibukiyama, east of Biwako lake
2 hours from Kyoto, Ibukiyama is further away than Biwako valley but less busy. Ibukiyama is a good place to go for the day, and the views are just as stunning as at other places. The decent runs are long for the area and more varied than Biwako. They don't have a snow park, but the runs are all snowboard friendly.

Gunma

Norn Minakami, near Minakami IC
A smallish place but offers good night snowboarding/skiing. There are two lengthy runs that go about 1km a piece and they give you a good challenge. The night boarding begins at 4:30pm and goes until 10pm, so you can get almost the equivalent of a full day in. Norn is just 3km from the Minakami IC of the Kanetsu Expressway - so easy to get to from Tokyo.

Marunuma Kogen, border of Gunma and Tochigi
This is a popular resort and a good day trip. Many of the runs lack a decent vertical drop, but there are some great little runs to be found, and there are lots of onsen around for afterwards. Marunuma is the furthest of the main resorts from Numata interchange along route 120 towards Nikko, but it is well worth the extra 30 minutes drive. You'll usually find really good snow conditions waiting for you.

Oze Tokura, Katashina-Mura
For boarders in Japan this place is a mecca. Not far from Yuzawa, this place is the home of the Burton School in Japan and the JSBA. There's nothing special about the slopes except the amateur pipe, the jump park, the professionally crafted twin half-pipes and the sound system. Serious boarders who look to go pro can get excellent lessons and find some serious camaraderie. Best to bring a Burton board.

Niigata

Myoko Suginohara, Myoko
Suginohara, a favorite in the Myoko region of Niigata (about 1 hour to the north of Nagano City), has a good selection of long runs for all levels, excellent snow and has been known to offer relatively relaxed off-course attitudes.

Cupid Valley, east of Arai
Cupid features a nice ride from the top of the mountain, and its well groomed half-pipe and board park are the rave. There are several jumps, a half-make, waves and bowls.

　

KAGURA

Kagura, Yuzawa
One of the more popular places in Yuzawa, Kagura is the central part of the Tashiro Kagura Mitsumata resort area, which since last year is connected to Naeba via the Dragondola Gondola. Look out for crowds early and late in the season (when the other resorts in Yuzawa don't have enough snow), but in the main season expect great powder and a great variety of runs.

Seki Onsen
Don't go here unless you have a pair of telemark skis, an avalanche beacon, a German Shepard and a very alert partner. Powder and chaos.

Okutadami
A maniac place that is usually closed from December to February because of too much snow. You have to go through 12 tunnels to get there. It's known as the setting for the book and movie White Out. When you chill out after a spell on the cool pipes and kickers, don't forget to try the iwana baked fish.

Gifu

Takasu Snow Park
Some great secret powder runs to be found. Not so busy on weekdays and a decent selection of runs for every level.

Ishikawa

Hakusan Ichirino Onsen
This place is good for beginning to intermediate riders, but there is enough off-piste action to keep anyone interested. After a decent snowfall there are some good runs underneath the gondola with good powder, natural bowls and some good jumps and bumps. Probably not worth a long drive, but if you live in Ishikawa or find yourself nearby, it is definitely a great little place.

Hyogo

Nashiki Kogen
Want a place without the usual crowds? The lift lines are never a problem here and there's a bit of fun tree stuff off the top of the mountain - probably the best you'll find anywhere in Hyogo or south of it. It's also the steepest you'll find around these parts. Easy access compared to the Hachi area, more interesting, and a fraction of the crowds.

Thanks to:
Mami-chan, the guys at tabibitotravel.com, and especially the guys at snowjapan.com for their for their expert snowology advice in compiling this article.