:: FEATURE

Postcard from Pyongyang

Travelling to the Democratic People's Republic of Korea, a.k.a. North Korea, is not for everyone, even if it seems that in the 70s not everyone had the choice. Even for those that theoretically do - Americans and South Koreans for instance do not -- the reality of access depends on volatile international politics. Rows over kidnappings, nuclear weapons and increasingly strident US foreign policy all help wind up the diplomatic playground's most petulant ego and can make getting there an unpredictable affair.

One way to take at least some of the pain out of planning is to go through one of the travel agencies that arrange trips there, but arguably an even better way is to go with Japanese peace organisation Peace Boat (see side bar 'Boat People'). There's no shortage of company to share the experience with and the hosts, from genuine interest as much as diplomatic PR, go all out to make the stay an enjoyable one. You're also guaranteed to make the news, since the Japanese government regards the trip with barely disguised loathing.

Though Peace Boat's visits are unusual because they include local exchanges, sightseeing still features. The Tower of The Juche Idea - Kim Il Sung's take on national self-sufficiency - is a highlight on account of the grandeur of both the monument and the ideal, which for good or bad has left its mark on every aspect of North Korean life. Another popular spot is the Museum of the Revolution, with its visual display of how Kim Il Sung, with a little help presumably, overcame the Japanese Imperial Army to become the father of the nation, Dear Leader and now Eternal President (the eternal bit owing to his being dead). His son, Kim Jong Il - communism seemingly no obstacle to the hereditary principle - is therefore technically eternally No. 2, albeit Great Leader for a likewise lengthy period.

Rural North Korea is stunning. Paekdusan, Korea's Mt Fuji, is as beautiful as the depictions of it - which are everywhere - suggest, and the countryside has barely been touched by the concrete that mars the cities. Similarly green, though anything but untouched (it's heavily mined), is the Demilitarized Zone - the frontline of Korea's technically unfinished war. Despite the nearby souvenir shop, the tension is palpable.

Less pretty, though perhaps most interesting of all, is Pyongyang itself: Sprawling plazas, frescoes to heroic workers (lots of people leaning forward), 13-lane highways and perhaps strangest of all for jaded Tokyoites, absolutely no advertising on the subway. Traffic lights are only used when traffic is "dense" although with almost no cars it is hard to imagine what the guide meant by dense - two cars going in opposite directions?

While nightlife is nearly non-existent - power shortages keep the city dark - decent dining options do exist for visitors, one of the biggest being the palace-like, reimen (cold buckwheat noodles) restaurant, Ongnyu, overlooking the Taedong river. For those needing a drink, the ginseng-infused vodka insam-ju is stiff stuff, though decadent sweet-tooths may be disappointed with The People's ice cream.

What is strangest is that despite no immediate feeling that the perpetuation of the system is due to mass fear, absolutely no-one, even the intelligent, multi-lingual, well-mannered guides, makes the tiniest criticism of the status quo. But for all the differences though, what stands out the most are the day-to-day similarities - children playing, packed busses, rushed restaurant staff - that remind you that however bizarre the political theme-park is, people still study, work, make friends, fall in love, enjoy the sun and hate the rain much the same as everyone else.

Doing it yourself

Ultimately even tour group trips are organised through the official (North) Korea International Tourist Company, a.k.a. Ryohaengsa, and since 1989 it has been possible, and slightly cheaper, to go directly to them. You will however need to deal with the paperwork, follow up the application and arrange your transport, alone. Technically you could contact the KITC office in Pyongyang but going via their Beijing office (86-10-6437-6666) is reportedly more reliable. It's also where you would have to pick up your visa, though they are actually issued in Pyongyang - streamlined bureaucracy not being a DPRK thing.

Being a paradise for the people has it's drawbacks, one of which is the relative absence of travel agents - who would want to leave anyway? (Or even their home towns - where North Koreans can live is largely decided by officialdom too). One exception to this is British but conveniently Beijing-based Koryo Tours (see www.koryogroup.com or email: info@koryogroup.com) which offers more than the usual support for their intrepid customers. Prices vary between operators but tours of up to a week for small groups are $1100-$1500 (more for individual travel, less for bigger groups).

The Boat people

The posters are everywhere, including the ramen shop at the top of Mt Fuji (participants are given discounts for every poster placed) but it was not always so well-known. Peace Boat was started in 1983 by a handful of Waseda University students unhappy with that hardy perennial - history textbook scandals. They decided to hire a cruise ship to take the message that they too didn't believe the official whitewashing of WW2, to their Asian neighbours. Gradually these journeys increased in frequency and scope, with the 40th (three-month, round-the-world) cruise due to start Dec. 10th.

Peace Boat visits the places and interacts with the people your typical tour wouldn't - South American slums, the Israeli occupied territories, Lybia, the Kuril Islands (over which Japan and Russia are still technically at war), all while maintaining an on-board programme of lectures, language classes and entertainment. Every year, there are three round-the-world cruises, some day cruises and usually one cruise to the two Koreas in about September.

Applications should be made at least three months in advance and cost roughly \1,400,000, though for on-board translator/instructors it's free.

See www.peaceboat.org or call 03-3363-7561 for exact details which vary slightly between trips.

Text: Simeon Patterson
Photographs: Courtesy of Peace Boat participants