Organically Speaking

In this land of food-lovers, there exists a strange paradox. The country is famed for an indigenous cuisine so unprocessed that 'cooking' doesn't really describe it (nor would 'dead' for some kinds of sashimi) yet fast-food restaurants dot the landscape like greasy plastic behemoths and finding a healthy, organic restaurant can seem impossible. In Western supermarkets, organic produce packs the shelves, but Japan is certainly lacking when it comes to providing healthy, natural alternatives to the bland, regulation-sized (and flavoured) norm. Kansai Scene has sniffed out two exceptions to the rule however, providing relief to those tired of the endless procession of hamburgers and pallid, pesticide-laden veggies.

Kyoto – The 844 Store Café

The 844 Store Café
1F Reiho Bldg, Nishi-kiyamachi, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto-shi.
Tel: 075-241-2120.
Open 17:30 - 00:00

Many Kyoto folk will already be familiar with this one – during its five-year tenure, Shinya Yamamoto's project has become a favoured spot for foreigners and Japanese residents alike. The eclectic interior, with a looming blue giraffe and fertility statues surveying the anti-war messages written on the walls, serves as ample distraction.

The food gives fair indication as to why 844 has become a byword for vegetarianism and for slow food aficionados throughout the region. The fried tofu with seasonal vegetables and organic eggs came recommended, and lived up to the promise. Another gem is the pumpkin gratin with cheddar, gouda and camembert, although let it cool down first. If you don't, it's like eating napalm. The food ranges from ¥500 for a daikon salad, to ¥900 for a tofu burger with natto and ¥1450 for a fair-sized pizza.

As with its Osaka counterpart, 844 offers a wide range of drinks, politically correct enough to satisfy the most liberal of lounge-lizards. There are organic beers, Emi, a sake (proudly) made by women, and even natural cola.

Yamamoto defends his decision to serve meat dishes as well – he was tired by the lack of vegetarian options in regular restaurants, and didn't want to be guilty of the opposite trend in his. He was motivated to open an organic café through his many years working with processed and frozen foods – working in A-bar, amongst other places, made him realize the importance of good, healthy options. 844 also does a line in T-shirts and bags.

Osaka – Free Will

Free Will
1/F Shin-Osaka Backheim Bldg, Honmachi 1-16-1, Mikuni, Yodogawa-ku, Osaka-shi.
Tel: 06-6398-0535
Open: 11:30 - 02:00

Free Will is an oasis of calm. It doesn't boast the most convenient location (20 minutes west of Shin-Osaka Station) but it is well worth the walk. The neighbourhood reflects the nature of the café – next to a park, with a wooden veranda for the upcoming summer nights, Free Will is somewhere to kick back and reflect. The interior is comprised of simple wood fixtures, and everywhere there are reminders of the ethos behind the restaurant – from the hand-carved ashtrays to the sign above the cash register, which lets you know that Free Will loves you. The notebooks on each table, inviting you to record your thoughts (or Anpanman pictures), are also a nice touch.

While the menu is not the most extensive, it is fairly comprehensive, offering both vegetarian and meat dishes. Their drink menu is impressive, with a range of organic beers and wines. A recent addition is a range of cakes and desserts, which range from ¥400-600.

The food is everything you would expect from a self-professed proponent of the Slow Food movement – the pizzas take on a new dimension of flavour and the freshness of the produce seems to leap up at you. Everything is prepared by Seisho Shiota, who owns and manages the restaurant, in addition to providing his culinary expertise. He feels that there is not enough emphasis on healthy eating in Japan, and eighteen months ago he set about redressing the balance. According to Shiota, Free Will is the only restaurant of its kind in Osaka. They also do an interesting sideline in fake nails.

Text: Euan McKirdy