Landmines and Cappuccinos

Decades of war, burning African heat and a desert full of landmines don't spoil the welcome in Eritrea, reports Nick Hogg

The port town of Massawa blazes in temperatures of almost fifty degrees, unexploded landmines litter the desert, burnt-out tank shells and the bleached skeletons of cattle lay by the roadside. Sound inviting? This is the landscape of Eritrea, the small, newly-independent country north of Ethiopia, east of Sudan, and home to some of the most laid-back and hospitable people on the African continent.

After a 30 year war of independence with the Ethiopians, followed by several years of smaller skirmishes, Eritrea is enjoying a hard-earned peace. Only two years since the fighting ended, the welcome given to foreign visitors couldn't be friendlier. This part of the African coast has been trading with Turkey and Italy for centuries and the influences are especially visible in the architecture and the vibrant coffee culture. Forget cream-topped lattes and plastic cups, Eritrean coffee is very black, very strong and served in tiny porcelain cups after an incense burning ceremony. A huge spoon of brown sugar adds to a kick guaranteed to snap anyone out of a siesta. But if the caffeine buzz is a little too much, a glass of mies, a deliciously sweet honey wine, soon brings the calm back.

While the coast swelters in some of the hottest average temperatures on earth, the capital city Asmara, 2,300 meters further towards that beautiful blue sky, is an oasis of cool. The road from the parched desert coast runs past ramshackle mud brick homes up to lush green mountain ranges with stunning views. Life above the drought-line is not as difficult as it is below. The war never reached this area and its people walk the palm-lined main street with an easy and relaxed gait. The population is roughly half Christian and half Muslim, with the Roman Catholic Cathedral and the Grand Mosque almost directly across the road from each other. But if that sounds like a recipe for ethnic strife, it's not. In fact, Eritrea is now such a mellow place that the capital was conspicuously devoid of police officers. As one local schoolteacher put it, "why would we need any?"

If the juddering bus ride that swings through the hairpin bends from the capital is too much to stomach, then there is always the train. A ride taken on a clanking, hissing antique Eritrean steam locomotive makes any roller-coaster seem tame by comparison. The narrow gauge track helter-skelters around rocky peaks as a frantic brakeman twists and turns a giant screw that sparks like a firework to slow the screeching wheels down. Steep gradients disappear into pitch-black tunnels only emerge from the other end even steeper. But despite the white-knuckle appearance of the ride, they say the greatest danger on this relic of Italian colonization are the errant donkeys that wander onto the track.

Whether snorkeling by the seaside or sipping espressos in the capital, you will find Eritreans fiercely proud of their nation. Their hospitality and openness is quite humbling; this is one place where it is truly possible to be a tourist without being treated as one.

Travel Tips

Visas:
All visitors require visas but regulations are varied and changeable. Tourist visas are usually valid for 30 days. Check with the embassy for exact details.

Costs:
Currency: Eritrea uses the Nafka, with 1 Nafka equaling around ¥10. A beer should cost around ¥30; a mid-range room in the capital should be ¥500-1000.

When to go:
September/October and March/April offer the best climate. Avoid June to August, which is the rainy season. The Orthodox Christian festival Meskel takes place on 27 September.

Getting there:
There are no direct flights from Japan. One route is via Egypt, which you can get to on Lufthansa from Tokyo (Narita) or Kansai International Airport, via Frankfurt, Germany. Those with time and a sense of adventure can catch a bus from there to Eritrea. People in more of a hurry can fly to Asmara with Egypt Air, though travellers are warned to confirm the service is still running, and when, before leaving Japan. Another possibility is flying from KIX (there are no flights from TIX) via Dubai, United Arab Emirates, from where is isn't such a short hop to the Eritrean capital, on Daalo Airlines. Always confirm flights in advance.

Further info:
www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/africa/eritrea