The Land of Natural Treasures
— Kota Kinabalu, Sabah

The Sabah region is one of Borneo’s best-kept eco-treasure secrets. It is a wonderland of green magic, liquid avenues, tropical rainforests and exotic pleasures. The capital, Kota Kinabalu (KK) comes alive mainly from March till October, is the place for those who want to be entranced by Sabah’s eco-treasures.

If you are ever in the check-in line for Kota Kinabalu from Kuala Lumpur, request the pretty ticketing girl to give you a window seat up front. If that is already taken, as it most probably will be, then ask for the window on the last row.

You‘ll thank yourself for being so choosy, because the view that unfolds as you approach Sabah is one of the most phenomenal you can get. You look down to turquoise blue sea merging into lush green field stretched into thick rainforests. The sky is a bright royal blue that contrasts with endless stretches of white sandy beaches.

The view is too spectacular to resist capturing it on film. Make sure you have your camera on your lap before fastening your seat belt.
Arriving at the KK International Airport was entering the gateway of northern Malaysian Borneo — many have called it a tropical paradise — an apt description in more ways than one as I found that there is no shortage of tranquil places to ease the soul, things to see, activities to do and traditional local life to enjoy.

The best part of all this is it’s warm weather, warm seas and warm hospitality. Being a coastal state, Sabah is also blessed with abundant fresh seafood, sandy beaches, world-best dive sites and world-class beach resorts.

The temptation to get into the water made me begin my expedition with the five outlying islands of Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park — the diving site for snorkelers among the islands and on the coral reef. Manta rays, giant turtles, myriad species of coals, lionfish and sharks are some of the species that inhabit the warm waters of the park.

I hop-on and hop-off to three of the best islands through an easy network of speed-boat services — no more than a twenty-minute ride from one island to another. The diving around these islands is in shallow water, and sumptuous coral gardens.

The area boasts more splendid beaches than you could hope to visit. Lying on the sand you have beautiful views of Mt. Kinabalu, flying birds, white clouds — and in the silence I could hear my inner-self. The best part was the sunset – how can the sky ever be the colour of pure gold?

If you fail to motivate yourself to get the last boat to KK, there is no need to worry as most of the islands offer accommodation with traditional Malay food.

Next on my list was Mt. Kota Kinabalu — the highest peak in Borneo, which rises majestically into the sky more than 4,000 meters. Wherever you are in KK, Mt. Kinabalu is the backdrop to all views. The summit is not always visible as it is often shrouded in mists and clouds, which add to the mountain's mysterious allure.

To reaching the top takes two to three days depending on the weather. Unlucky my arrival at the base — Mt. Kinabalu National Park (Malaysia’s first World Heritage site)—was accompanied by rain. The two-hour drive from KK to the Park was an unforgettable scenic journey through lush countryside dotted with traditional village houses.

Before joining a guided tour to this botanical paradise, I rejuvenated my body and mind at the Poring Hot Springs, a natural health spa where one can relax in open-air Japanese style baths in a tropical rainforest setting.

Even though I am not a botanical person, I was simply amazed on the three-hour tour of this park which is the home of rare flora and fauna ranging over four climate zones including more than a thousand species of orchids, hundreds of beautiful butterflies, and strains of ferns as well as the rare ‘Rafflesia Tengku’ — a startlingly bright, spongy looking flower.

The park has one of the richest collections of flora in the world, and includes the Paphiopedilium Orchid (world’s most expensive plant) and Chidaceae/Lady Sleeper (approx. US$32,000). Pitcher Plant (Nepenthes) and Rafflesia were the most attractive and popular. My senses were awakened while I was walking around, as there was lots to see, feel, smell and touch. A special video-film and the exhibition are also on display at the end of the tour for more detailed information for the flora otaku.

Before winding up the tourist spots of the city, I visited the Orangutan Rehabitation Centre at Shangri-la’s Rasa Ria Resort. It’s a about an hour’s drive from KK. The Resort is on an isolated place, and opens into the sea on its front, to the rainforest on its side and to the beautiful view of Mt. Kinabalu at the back.

This resort is the best place to observe the female and the baby orangutan — a symbolic image of Borneo. The orangutan is known as ‘the wild man of the forest’ by locals, and is the largest tree-dwelling animal in the world. The center has a special ramp for visitors to observe the mother and the baby orangutans, and the best timing to view them is during feeding hours. At other times whether they show up depends on their whim more than the call of the keeper.

Their loud cries and the crashing sound of jungle underbrush alerted us to the direction of their approach. It took me a while to judge the speed of their movement, and the screams of birds added to the excitement.
My eyes were stuck to the view -finder of the camera when the orangutans were around. Only the baby orangutans appeared on the ramp out of thick bush in acrobatic style — hanging and swinging on the ropes. The kid was more interested in playing than in the bananas and they showed off their impressive skills. This is a rare opportunity to watch orangutans at such close quarters.

Before flying out from KK, I had a quick one-day round up of some the landmarks and the tourist spots of the city. It seems to experience KK you need at least a week. You could probably do all the tourist things and see the sights in three days, but there is more to KK than that. The charm of KK is also in eating seasonal tropical fruits, slurping street food at local markets, bargaining for omiyage at Sunday markets and chatting with locals. You can easily spend a day or two with your rental car driving through the fabulous scenic-roads of the region, or just bird watching in the forests.

No matter what you do, you are sure to feel a strong desire to return. I am already feeling it, and by the time you read this, I might be on my way back to the natural treasures of Mt. Kinabalu.

Text & Photos: Jatin Banker