Unzen

Kyushu has some of Japan’s most spectacular hiking trails. Kate Crockett explores the beautiful mountain town of Unzen, where hot mineral springs soothe the feet of tired walkers year-round.

From the nearby mountain peaks, the quaint town of Unzen, with its huge glacial-blue lake and steep-roofed dwellings, surrounded by lush forests, looks like a picture postcard Alpine village. In the town, which is located on Nagasaki prefecture’s Shimabara peninsula and part of Japan’s first national park, you can enjoy locally brewed beer in its very own “bierkeller” and even buy souvenir Germanic bierkrugs (stein) in the local gift shops. But, unlike in the Alps, visitors to this mountain retreat don’t have to share the slopes with skiers, as Unzen is 100 per cent dedicated to the more leisurely pursuit of hiking.

Throughout the year, Unzen plays host to a steady stream of visitors who come to enjoy its dramatically different landscapes, season by season. In Japan’s sticky summers, visitors come to enjoy the natural air conditioning that makes Unzen a comfortable 22 degrees in August. In Autumn, visitors poise their cameras for the sea of yellow and red which washes over the mountains as the leaves change color, and, at the onset of winter, they’ll be back again to see the forests transformed into a white wonderland as the morning fog freezes into ice crystals on the tree branches. Finally, as spring arrives, Unzen comes back to life with azaleas carpeting the peaks in blazing purple.

The town is delightfully compact and can be explored in its entirety on foot in an afternoon. A network of well-marked (in English), woodland trails connect the main attractions, including the three public hot springs and a series of steaming Jigoku or “Hells” (Very hot springs: for looking, not bathing). There are also pathways around the turquoise Oshidori lake; the mysterious Gensei-numa marsh, which, in May, bursts into bloom with irises and azaleas; and picturesque Shirakumo pond, with its pedalos and the only budget accommodation in town — the camp site.

However, it is the accessible, nearby, volcanic peaks that are Unzen’s big attraction. They include Japan’s newest mountain, Heisei Shinzan, which stands at 1486 meters and was formed by the 1990 eruption of Mt Fugen. The smoking lava dome is just visible from the road to Shirakumo pond in the town, but most visitors head up the magnificent Nita Pass for a close up look. At the Nita Pass car park and bus stop is the base station of the Unzen rope-way and the starting point for hikers heading up Mt. Fugen, Mt. Kunimi and Mt. Myoken. The hiking trail is clearly marked and there are observation points en route, as well as a mountain-top shrine on Mt. Myoken. A circular walk over the peaks from the car park takes around three hours. Although it is steep in places, is well worth the effort for the fantastic vistas of the lava flows, the Shimabara peninsula, the Amakusa islands and on a clear day, even as far as Mt. Aso.

And, back in town, what better way to unwind after a hard day pounding the hills than in the luxury of a hot mineral spring bath? Head straight for the onsen in your accommodation or, for those without (attention campers), make a beeline for one of the three delightful — and delightfully cheap - public hot spring baths. The swankiest is the Kojigoku onsen, a 15-minute walk from the visitor’s center (400yen).

Unzen’s biggest drawback is the cost. After the campsite (300yen per night, April to November), the cheapest places in town are the budget ryokan, at around 7000yen per night. That said, once you’ve forked out for a place to stay, Unzen’s attractions are free (the hells, walking trails, foot spas and shrines and temples) or very cheap (the public onsen). Despite being a lofty 700 meters above sea level, Unzen is served by two bus companies and is a convenient 40 minutes from Shimabara and only two hours from Nagasaki (on a pleasant bus route which hugs the coast and on which the driver stops for photo opportunities en route): making it a perfect weekend getaway destination all year round. Go on — treat yourself!

Text & Photos: Kate Crockett