Koyasan

Koyasan is a fascinating getaway in northern Wakayama-Ken which offers a variety of traditional temples, sacred shrines and a spooky cemetery. However, it is a day trip that can’t be missed.

Koyasan is a cultural and religious oasis nestled in the mountainous surroundings of northern Wakayama-ken. Dating back to the 9th century, you can view historical tombstones and rub shoulders with modern-day monks. So is it an otherworldly or out-of-this world experience?

The adventure starts early with the trek to Koyasan on rail routes lined with lush greenery. If you’re traveling from Osaka, the express train on the Koya or Nankai-Dentetsu line starting from Namba takes about two hours.

After reaching Gokurakubashi Station, transfer to the cable car and ride up the mountain. It’s a little steep but is a dramatic introduction to what awaits. You need take a bus to the center of town, where the main sights can be reached on foot. This is quite a refreshing alternative when you consider mountain grounds are much cooler than most Japanese cities in summer.

Whatever the reason for your visit, you can experience the local lifestyle as much — or as little — as you want to. The mountains are tranquil with not another soul in sight until you reach the main town. The high street has a few restaurants, a post office and a gift shop. I sampled the local katsu-donburi (pork cutlet on rice) so grab a bowl of this delicious dish if you can.
Okuno-in-mae is at the end of the bus route and brings you to the cemetery entrance. The traditional burial ground is not as eerie as you may first imagine although overcast days can be a different story. Used for centuries as the final resting place of some of the most respected Buddhist figures, you can also see gravestones and memorials for those who died in Japan’s past wars. Photographs put faces to the names on the memorials making things feel a little creepy at times.

The cemetery also features the Toro-do (Lantern Hall) where hundreds of lamps have been burning for over 900 years. Buddhist funerals also take place here so don’t forget to be respectful if you happen to encounter one.

Another sight within the grounds is the mimyo-no-hashi where stone statues stand to represent lost and aborted babies over the years. Wooden plaques again put names to the memorials and make for a subduing experience. This may not be the most touristy of sights but it does bring home some of the simple cultural differences that make Japan that little bit different.

On a happier note, once you leave the cemetery, head towards Kongobu-ji, near Senjuin-bashi-mae. Currently the headquarters of the Buddhism Shingon School, the grounds feature a rock garden, ceremonial halls and impressive Japanese style rooms.
The Yanagi-no-ma (Willow Room) stands on public display as a memorial to samurai Toyotomi Hidetsugu. In the room where he committed ritual suicide, the sliding doors feature fetching paintings of willow trees (hence the name) during the four different seasons.
Also check out the Banryutei rock garden, which is billed as the largest rock garden in Japan at a whopping 2349 square metres. Its design comprises of a pair of dragons made from 140 pieces of granite rock rising from the sea. Quite a lot of rocks when you think about it. Whatever your view of the stone garden, don’t miss out on the tea and rice cakes on offer in the big hall towards the back of the school. It makes the ¥350 entrance fee stretch further.

The architectural highlight of Koyasan must be the Danjogaran or ‘sacred precinct’. The trio of Daito, Saito and Kondo form a collection of sacred halls and pagodas. Of the three, the Daito is perhaps the best one to see. Despite being rebuilt after a fire in 1934 it has an impressive pagoda structure and features the Cosmic Buddha and four attendant Buddhas.

Make your visit more memorable by spending a night at one of the
50 local temples. A ‘Shukubo’ includes staying in temple quarters, a vegetarian meal and an opportunity to assist the monks with their morning chores. You can also get involved with the daily prayer service and you don’t even have to be religious to take part. Be warned that most of the prices are fixed and a standard fee of ¥6,000~9,000 per person is usually charged for this privilege.
Koyasan is said to be the traditional religious experience in Kansai. Whether Buddhism interests you or not, cemeteries, rock gardens and temples are one way to make the most of your trip. Embrace the fresh air, take in the culture and let Koyasan give you the ultimate shukyo experience.

COSTS
TRAIN: From Namba, the train costs 1,280 yen. You can get a joint ticket which allows you to ride the cable car too. From Kyoto, go via Osaka. From Nara, take the JR line to Hashimoto, changing at Sakurai and Takadate.
SIGHTS: The cemetery is free but don’t forget to be respectful. Kongobuji is 350 yen and is open from 8.30am-4.30pm. The Danjogaran costs 100 yen for each building and is open from 8.30am-4.30pm.
SHUKUBO: Try these places for your Shukubo experience… (prices vary)
Haryo-in: Tel: 0736-56-2702
Eiko-in: Tel: 0736-5614
Henjoson-in: Tel: 0736-56-2434
Koya Youth Hostel: Tel: 0736-56-3889

Text & Photos: Naheen Madarbakus