The Winning Daruma —
Katsuoji Temple
As the weather blooms with the
sun’s warmth, it’s a good time to get into your shorts
and sunglasses, free your mind and get in tune with existence. Katsuoji
— the temple of winning luck and a beautiful meeting of faith
and nature — offers the perfect opportunity.
Temple can be easily reached by road or by trekking.
This mountain has been worshipped as a holy place for thousands
of years for the immeasurable spiritual power that it possesses.
Even today the locals feel the same strength of their beliefs and
prayers in “winning luck” for any reason or occasion —
success in examinations, sports, business, elections, or a cure
for illness. No matter, every prayer is sure to be granted at Katsuoji.
The power begotten by prayer at this temple is said to exceed even
that of the Imperial Court. Emperor Seiwa (859-876) thus named it
Katsuoji: “the Temple that Wins against Monarchs”.
The ancient records place the founding of the
temple during AD727; when two holy priests — who were twin
brothers — built a hut for their religious training at this
site. Later a Buddhist priest called Myokan, an incarnation of the
goddess of mercy, gathered 18 children, and in one month carved
an almost 2.5 meter high, eleven-faced sandalwood statue of Kannon
(Goddess of Mercy) with one thousand hands. This became the principal
deity of the temple, since then it has attracted rulers through
the ages, who come to pray for the luck to be victorious in their
campaigns. And eventually, ordinary people too directed their faith
at the temple to allow them to win in life with the “Winning
Daruma (tumbling doll)”— a symbolic image ubiquitous at
Katsuoji.
The armless, legless, and eyeless Daruma dolls
are one of the most popular talismans of good luck not only in Katsuoji
or in Kansai, but all over Japan. Normally one can buy them at shrine
festivals and fairs. They are made of papier-mache, painted in red,
and depict Bodhidharma — founder of Zen Buddhism — seated
in mediation. If knocked over, the doll pops back to the upright
position — hence the tumbling doll name. Daruma are available
in different sizes — the standard one is larger than a football.
But the one that you find here is rare: made out of wood and smaller
than your mobile phone. Stacked all over the temple premises, these
cute, colourful dolls are a striking sight. They are also available
as souvenirs.
The expansive grounds have temples, halls, a pagoda,
long stone steps, gardens and a beautiful pond with a fountain.
You can wander around and relax while taking it all in, visually
and spiritually. The place gives you an opportunity to salve your
soul with soothing scenery and the zen vibe in the atmosphere. The
landscape is a backdrop of changing seasons as there are seasonal
flowers all around. This attracts tourists
like busy bees all year round. After the cherry blossoms, it’s
time for rhododendrons, the summer flowers. There are several spots
for picnics around the campus, plus a souvenir shop and a restaurant
at the entrance of the temple premises. The temple holds a special
attraction every New Year’s Day as tons of local residents
come down to pray.
THE HIKING:
You can hike to Kastuoji Temple from Mino Hankyu Station. The route
passes through a number of historical sites including Japan's oldest
milestone marking the distance to the temple. The walk is accompanied
by some of fine views of the Osaka plains and the river Mino. A
brief stop at the Mino waterfall is refreshing. Once this route
was also known as an access path for people to visit the temple.
The hike is about two hours (7 kms), with a number of steep hills.
GETTING THERE:
From Senri-Chuo Bus-stop #5 (Midosuji Subway Stn.) take a bus to
Hokusetsudai for Katsuoji Temple. Three buses (9.25/11.50/14.35)
on a week-days and six buses (9.20/10.20/11.35/12.35/13.50) on weekend
costs about ¥480/oneway. It’s about a 50-minute bus-ride.
Opening Hours: Mon.-Fri. 8:00-17:00, Sat. 8:00-17:30, Sun.&
holidays 8:00-18:00
Admission: ¥400 (Temple Premises)
more information: Mino Tourist Office: Tel: 072-723-1885 (English/Japanese).
Katsuoji Temple Office: Tel: 0727-21-7010 (Japanese).
Text & Photos: Jatin Banker
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