Kusum Homba
— An Indian Home in Kobe

Dining at Kusum Homba I was seized momentarily with the feeling that I had wandered off the street into the home of complete strangers and was stealing their dinner.

Actually, I was a welcome guest and dinner was served, not filched, and my sense of dislocation arose from the fact that the restaurant is located in a regular flat in a residential block and has, well, a unique ambience. And the food is great — home-style cooking and purely vegetarian — and for one modest price you can eat as much as you want.
I think I could move in here.

Kusum Homba was started as an adjunct to his spice importing business by AK Tewari, in 1999. The restaurant now has a sibling, Indo Mura, and both restaurants are in Kitano, Kobe.

Kusum Homba has a makeshift dining room that seems to include the entrance hall and what must have been the living room. The dining area is done out in white and the walls adorned with an impulsively arranged collection of Indian art that says 'living room' rather 'restaurant'. The tables and chairs — which seem more parked than placed — are, my Indian dining companion assures me, right out of an Indian food hall. He clearly feels comfortable here.

In most cultures there is a distinction between home and restaurant cooking and India is no exception. For a variety of practical and religious reasons, the default is vegetarian, so you won't find any meat on the menu at Kusum Honba, and the food is more aromatic than fiery or pungent.

As at home you don't order á la carte. There are two choices of meal: lunch (¥980) and dinner (only ¥1200), both substantial sets with plenty of variety. Fruit juice is included, but if you want lassi or beer, you pay a modest extra. Everything is made fresh. The samosas are compellingly herby and dished up with sides of mango relish and a tangy coriander relish.

The curries were channa (chickpea), dal (actually a soup) and mixed vegetable smothering paneer. The dal was excruciatingly fragrant and satisfying — it is not an obvious thing to order when we go out for Indian, but we overlook it to our loss. The rice was basmati: a rare treat in these parts.

The staff positively encouraged us to order more chapatti, which of course comes at no extra cost. It is made to order and comes right off the hot plate with a slathering of ghee on top. This chapatti does not sit around.

As your thali bowls empty of curry or dal, they are magically filled up again, and they will go on refilling themselves until you burst or tell them to stop.

Kusum Honba also offers a take out service. You order á la carte but you must place your orders a day in advance. Pick up a menu when you visit or see their web site.

Across the hall from the restaurant is the original shop, the Indian Provision Shop, where you can pick up all the basic pulses, spices, pickles, and so on to attempt your own Indian blow out at home.

Indo Mura is a recent expansion of Tewari's busi-ness. It is a spacious, bright place done out with more of that imported furniture. The food again is vegetari-an and home style, but with more restaurant presentation. And in the back, there is another Indian provision store for the home cooks.

A note on finding Kusum Honba. Being in a resi-dential building there is no sign on the street. Find Hayama Heights and take the elevator up to the third floor. The restaurant is diagonally across the hall.
And don't be too late: last orders are at 8:30. Indian is always a good choice, and if you are a fan of the cuisine you'll feel right at home at Kusum Homba.

Kusum Honba
302, 305 Hayama Heights 2-3-8,
Yamamoto-dori, Chuo-ku, Kobe.
7-min walk from Sannomiya Stn.
Tel: 078-221-0229
www.indian-spice.com

Text: Chris Page • Photos: KS