Sep 2004
Issue 052

Out now!


Yukata

Grubbing a plate of cold soba, hiking Fuji-san, getting pushed at Gion Matsuri or attending a lengthy nihongo summer crash course — all these can help you experience Japanese summer at its best, but it could be an incomplete experience with out slipping on a yukata. Even though Japan doesn't have much variety of traditional clothes to offer, today the yukata is one of the most popular outfits of the season for all sorts of occasions.

Before summer days vanish and so the summer clothes, this could be your last chance to grab a yukata from stores with an additional label of “end of season sale”. As you could be proud of yourself for getting one at almost half price, it would not be a bad idea if you put an extra set on the bill as an early Christmas gift from the world of traditional Japan to the folks back home.

The best excuse for getting into a yukata is hanabi. After the firecrackers, the most spectacular sight to enjoy at hanabi is the young Japanese crowd in vibrant and outstanding yukata. You might think that yukata is the official dress for hanabi. And why not? It's a great chance for youngsters to enjoy the flavor of tradition. This season was swept with graphical large floral design prints in bright and contrasting colors — can this be credited to UniQlo's seasonal yukata collection?

Looking back, the name yukata comes from the word yu (bath) and katabira (under clothing). Yukatabira — a simple clothe which both, men and women (especially for the aristocracy) used to wear while taking a bath (more like a sauna —about 1200 years ago). Originally it was made of jute. Time brought changes, and the after the Edo period (1604-1868), most people started wearing then after bathing and so it picked up the name yukata. One can see such yukata at ryokan — Japanese-style inns — round the year, to be worn after taking onsen (hot spring). To enjoy more public bathing and summer festivals slowly yukata became popular and a cooler alternative to kimono in hot weather.

Today, yukata are still very popular, mainly amongst young women. Understand-ably, as a yukata is a most charming and comfortable dress for special summer days: hanabi (fire works), matsuri (festivals), and the bon-odori (the Bon festival dance). Plus compared to kimono, yukata are much easier, cheaper, comfortable and less complicated to put on. And so in recent years, the yukata has become a summer fashion icon. Several regional fashion shows and competitions are the platform for not only young women to show off, but for some of the big fashion labels. Such impact has brought a new style in yukata — long-sleeves (furisode), shorter in lengths, and reversible types.

Being a Kansaijin, this might make you feel closer to yukata — Osaka and Kyoto are on the list of the five largest yukuta producing cities in Japan, along with Tokyo, Hamamatsu, and Nagoya. And more surprisingly still, 80 percent of the dying process of yukata production is done by hand using traditional techniques. We should not be surprised at the stores that some yukata are more expensive than others — the credit goes to the “hand-made” label!

Each region has its own characteristic designs. Iki (stylish and smart) with classical indigo and white colors are traditional designs of Tokyo yukata. This design has been loved since the Edo period. While on the other hand, the Kansai crowd enjoys more vivid colors, showy, and large print designs.

Bearing in mind that your yukata shopping might be a once in a lifetime event, the outfit is incomplete without geta (clogs) and obi (belt/sash). So choose carefully to find something that reflects your style — but it will not be an easy choice!

Text: Yoko Sakamoto
Photos: KS

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