Italy, Kyoto
Ristorante Sabatini Kyoto

Under a gateway and down a side street in a moss-grown part of Kyoto sits a lantern shining Sabatini, the only indication that an Italian ristorante is right before you, that and you can see an Italian crystal chandelier twinkling behind the garden's maple leaves. The lantern is a beacon for those in hope of reaching Italy at home in Japan, without paying the equivalent of an airfare for dinner.

Ristorante Italiano Sabatini opened the doors in May with an idea apart from its fellow Sabatini ristorantes. It has a 46-year history in Italy, and has been a staple on the Tokyo scene for 23 years. Though what sets Kyoto apart is the fact that their menu changes day to day in accordance with what fresh ingredients are available that morning.

Past the water garden and up the stairs sits the dining room under a golden ceiling. It's furnished with dark wood illuminated in buttery light cast from the Italian sconces. A Picasso hangs above the fireplace.

The KS team sits up straight, careful not to tip the crystal or clatter the flatware. There are a few quietly chattering diners, it's lunch time, and the menu is proceeded by the rather dashing head-chef. Ito-san says a quick “Hello” and pops his head in amongst the other groups to see that everything is to their taste, making recommendations and accepting compliments.

Ito-san has been cooking for Sabatini since its introduction to Aoyama 23 years ago. He's been at the helm of a succession of openings since then.

He assures us that their aim is serving indulgent proportions of fabulous food, and in the true Italian way, it's okay if you can't finish your meal, but vital that you enjoyed it.

“Sabatini has had a set menu for its 46-year history following the Sabatini brother's original Roman menu,” he says.

“Here though, we're using Kyoto ingredients fresh from the market every morning, and we are creating a new style of seasonal Italian cuisine. I enjoy talking with the diners and I'm happy to alter the menu so each customer gets exactly what they want. It's true Italian food, simple, but good.”

At first glance, our feast looks anything but simple, and good is an understatement. Ito-san's creations float by in flavour-filled dreams. Vegetables never looked so bright and colourful or sang with such taste, shiny slivers of sea life swimming in flavour, chubby chunks of bacon, baby pink flecks of salmon, black olives, scarlet tomatoes and creamy lengths of pasta …

Shimonura-san continues wheeling the cute little service trolleys out despite our feeble protests of being about to burst. “This is a Kyoto inspired gellato, and these are three more desserts…” The rest is a blur of contented slouching and Italian music.

Director-General Yoshio Sasaki explains that the Sabatini brothers chose Japan because so many of the satisfied customers in their Roman ristorante are Japanese. Also because one of the Sabatini boys left his wallet in a Japanese restaurant and was mightily impressed to have it returned safely to him the next day. By the way, what exactly is the difference between a restaurant and a ristorante?

“Around the world restaurant describes any place for food,” explains Sasaki-san. “But in Italy ristorante prescribes a high albeit standard level of dining. In decoration, food, and atmosphere. Sabatini is a proud part of that tradition, even our night time entertainment is the same as what you'd get in Rome.”
Sabatini Kyoto is in an almost stiflingly traditional area, where placing signage is prohibited and changing the outside appearance of the area is strictly watched, making it a challenge to find in the winding streets.

“We chose this area particularly because of its tradition,” continues Sasaki-san, “we wanted to introduce this taste in an effort to cross and combine the two cultures.”

A beautiful sentiment after a beautiful meal.

RISTORANTE SABATINI KYOTO
463-14 Shimogawara Koudaijimonmae Shimogawaradori Higashiyama-ku Kyoto
Tel: 075-532-2377
http://www.sabatini-fratelli.com

Text: Jared Olthof • Photos: Taka Kataoka