Singapore slung
Singapore is often described
as a kind of 'love-shopping' version of one of the totalitarian
empires in George Orwell's 1984. It is, in fact, all this and more.
Despite the country's fixation with economic expansion and law and
order, it remains an incredibly ethnically diverse and vibrant nation.
Likewise, not far beyond the sanitised official tourist traps lie
a host of alternatives that can make Singapore a whole stack of
fun.
The nation
Since declaring independence in 1965, bar the odd gurgle, Singapore
has adeptly bodysurfed a wave of state micro-managed prosperity.
This has given the country one of the world's highest per capita
GDPs, first-class infrastructure and, overlooking its use as a transit
lounge by international drug cartels, lashings of safety and security.
Not bad for a resource-poor island of only 650 square kilometres.
There are some who would also suggest that this achievement of
the Singaporean Dream owes much to the vigour and industry of the
country's highly immigrant population. The whole place seems infused
with this kind of 'gotta get ahead' vibe — for better or worse.
The usually totally monocular Singaporean government also appears
to buy this multi-cultural synergy theory and is, at least on the
surface, big on ethnic harmony.
Singapore is nothing though if not a land of contrasts. You see
mosques almost as often as temples or churches, trishaws edge out
Mercedes on crowded streets, fashion-model babes in skin-tight gear
jiggle along beside forms swathed in black abaya. Refreshingly,
thanks to a major government initiative, this Garden Isle also seems
to have at least one lush green space for every impotent skyscraper.
The sights
If contrasts is the designated keyword for Singaporean culture,
then alternatives applies for its tourist sights — as in there
are many far better alternatives close beyond the official attractions.
Having said that, the Raffles Hotel is definitely one local landmark
you should visit. Even today it is easy to feel the currents of
history that placed this still gorgeous structure at the vortex
of Britain's Eastern colonial empire. Luncheon in the Tiffin Room
or a scotch in the Billiards Room surrounded by casual antiques
and liveried wait-staff will enrich your life well beyond the experience's
also memorable price tag. A late-afternoon Singapore Sling in its
birthplace, the Long Bar, also rates highly.
The other big sight perhaps worth your time is the Night Safari,
which is basically a zoo for nocturnal animals. I don't generally
hold with zoos, but the Night Safari could be the exception. Partly
because the enclosures seem relatively open-plan, but mainly because
it is so loose cruising around in the dark checking out the (1,200
or so) beasties. One, maybe uncharitable, criticism though: without
night-vision goggles, some of the critters are really pretty difficult
to see.
For those who prefer their nature to be a little more actually
natural, the Bukit Timah reserve might be a better option. Although
the area's trails are well maintained, this is the real thing —
steaming virgin rain forest believed to be up to one million years
old. Those after something slightly tamer should try a stroll through
Singapore's world-renown, precision-manicured botanical gardens.
On the far side, you will find the National Orchid Garden, which
speaks neon testament to what generations of careful inbreeding
can do to a species.
Still on a natural trip, a very green and cathartic half-day jaunt
is to chance one of the ancient water taxis out to Pulau Ubin island.
When you arrive, rent a bike and get ready to sweat like a mule's
butt touring the wonderfully deserted tropical roads and beaches.
Don't forsake the shade of the Thai wat, where the star monk, who
looks like he probably trained with the Buddha himself, will bless
you in return for a small donation to the temple slush fund.
If Pulau Ubin doesn't appeal, you may enjoy Sentosa island 'pleasure
park'. Sentosa is a total Disneyland fun-time cheese fest of micro-theme
lands, aquarium shows, miniature train rides and other titillations.
Even the bleached white sand of the main beach is imported from
Indonesia. Personally, I love the tang of cheese, but I also figure
an aquatic-themed park should have good aqua, which, being washed
by the tainted currents of Singapore bay, Sentosa does not.
However, if it is sparkling tropical beaches you seek, the numero
one option is to take the 40-minute ferry ride across to Bintan
island. Although Bintan is part of Indonesia, a section is co-promoted
with Singapore as a kind of softcore eco-tourism enclave catering
to foreigners.
Access to the area is restricted to foreigners and official staff
— no locals may enter. While this does mean you are less likely
to end up tomato-sauced in Indonesia's current explosion of terrorist
acts, it does coat a definite 'sanitised for your protection' feel
on the experience.
Finally, and what of Singapore's reputation as a shopper's wet
dream? The best strategy for a downtown shopping mission is to hit
the Orchard Road area and then spiral out from this epicentre. However,
while Singapore is still 'cheap', with shopping malls and chains
taking over, the days of hunting for super-buys may have passed.
Unless you count the Gucci and Rolex, etcetera knockoffs at the
night markets.
Two areas where you can still strike bargains on items such as
fabrics/clothing, jewellery and crafts are Arab Street and Little
India. However, despite what the brochures say, Arab Street is somewhat
faded from its glory days — as are many of the items too long
on the racks crowding the footpaths in front of its shops. Little
India on the other hand retains much of its spice, treating you
to a heady mix of sights, sounds and especially smells.
The other main ethnic area is Singapore's Chinatown, with its awesome
food market. This tightly packed space buzzes with the phlegmy cadence
of Chinese haggling over prices — a soundbed that is overlaid
with the rhythmic thunking of cleavers and desolate sayonaras of
departing creatures. The vendors are also quick with sharp food
tips: 'Hey, wanna make your skin shiny, la? You try these fresh
frog glands, la.'
Text: Kym Hutcheon
Photos: Noriko Hasegawa, Jihae Lee
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