Corner of 42nd street and Dotombori
Magnitiude 2000
I'd been told that I was going to a sushi shop,
but I was misinformed. This place is not like all those other wood-and-wasabi
sushiya-san that we've all come to know (and love, I hasten to add)
in Osaka. First of all you negotiate a set of cellar steps and pull
the door handle (which is in fact a shovel: very Marcel Duch-amp!),
to be met by a tankful of ... what? A couple of long, pugnacious,
silvery fish, who don't look like they'd put up with anybody serving
them in slices on little beds of rice. Welcome to Magnitude 2000.
 "Arawana,"
explained Joe, a regular patron seated to my left at the bar. I
didn't know the word: I thought I was being offered something illicit.
"Related to the piranha," he explained further. Aha: the
fish! The only aggressive presence in the room!
From my corner barstool, I looked around the laid-back space. A
long, narrow line of tables (the shop seats 40), a wide, comfortable
bar counter, ambient light, non-intrusive music. A TV channel, sound
off, projected onto one back wall. Other cool stuff on the walls
(for example, a line of vintage neckties, all of which I wanted,
but all of which were also nailed to the wall). On the shelf behind
me, a good selection of sake bottles and in front of me a well-stocked
bar. To my right, two very small women happily ate a large selection
of food. I settled in.
It was just after 9:00 on a weeknight, and the staff were busy.
When he had a moment, I spoke with the manager, Kazuhisa Shimizu.
He's managed Magnitude 2000 for two years (he's also a floor-tiler:
admire his handiwork as you come down the stairs!). He told me that
Manabu (who owns two other shops and was elsewhere that night) worked
in restaurants in New York for some time and, when he returned seven
years ago, wanted to re-create the casual feel of a local Manhattan
bar. At the same time, he wanted to serve his own innovations on
Japanese food. In this reviewer's opinion, he's succeeded on both
counts.
Although not exclusively a sushi shop, Magnitude is well-known
for its sushi rolls. Shimizu-san poured us a beer and made us a
Dragon Roll. A long tube of raw tuna was rolled in rice, dusted
with sesame seeds and topped off with avocado. Light, filling (generous
portions) and delicious, it's a great alternative to your usual
greasy bar food. Also available are salmon avocado roll, spicy tuna
roll (just the right amount of zing in the dipping sauce), and fried
shrimp roll. The presentation of these dishes alone — six
portions arranged on a Japanese yakimono plate — is worth
the price.
You'll notice on the menu a list for yakitori, those little bits
of chicken on skewers, but you won't see any being fried. Just place
your order, and the yakitori shop down the road (part of Manabu's
empire) will do it up for you and bring it round. Prices for these
range between ¥120 and ¥200 (¥100 apiece for grilled,
ske- wered vegetables, which you vegetarians out there can enjoy
with the ¥500 Italian Tofu). I especially liked the ones marinated
in a Tabasco sauce — ask about them.
 The
beer selection ranges from ¥550 for Asahi on tap, to ¥700
for Corona and Zima. Magnitude stocks a good selection of American
whiskeys and bourbons, all between ¥650 and ¥900.
There is always a list of daily specials, and they often feature
seafood: whatever is fresh and interesting that day (the day I went,
shirako was on the menu: ask a Japanese friend about that one!).
Judging by the conversations at the bar, and the relaxed atmosphere,
a lot of people in the Dotombori neighbourhood have made Magnitude
2000 their local bar. Judging by the friendly service and the good,
reasonable food and drink to be found here, I might be tempted to
do the same.
Magnitude 2000
Dotombori 2-1-7, Chuo-ku, Osaka
Nearest Stn: Midosuji Shinsaibashi
Open: 5pm-3am (Everyday),
5pm-5am (Fridays, Saturdays, holidays)
Tel: 06-6214-1750
Text: Colin Doyle • Photos: Taka Kataoka
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