MAY 2005
Issue 060

Out now!


A fairytale in the midst of mountains
Lake Bled, Slovenia

“Can you actually believe that we are on the cover of the guidebook?” my companion said to me. As I looked around me, I could. Encircling me were the towering peaks of the Julian Alps, and at the base of those mountains was the famous Lake Bled, shining in the Slovenian sun, just as it was in the photograph on our faithful travel guide. In front of me was the tiny, fairytale Blejski Otok, the only true island in Slovenia. And protectively overseeing the valley was Bled castle.

Lake Bled is Slovenia's most popular (and profitable) tourist retreat. Slovenia itself is a tiny country with a population of just 1.93 million. It shares borders with Italy, Austria, Hungary and Croatia in Central Europe, and only gained independence from Yugoslavia in 1990. Since then tourism in the country has boomed, as people are realising the amazing natural beauty that Slovenia has to offer.

It is pretty much impossible to avoid jumping into the warm waters of Lake Bled as soon as you arrive. The large number of grass beaches created for bathers means that there is little problem finding a quiet spot for your towel. While sunbathing, we tried a traditional Slovenian snack, a burek. This delicious, layered pastry is filled with either cheese or meat and is extremely satisfying.

Feeling rejuvenated, we decided to swim the 300 metres across the lake to Blejski Otok and its picturesque church. Hidden by bay trees, the church's bell tower just peeps out over the top of the tree canopy. The swim seemed to be the furthest 300 metres I have ever traveled. In fact, I spent so much time gazing at the view that I very nearly collided with one of the elegant gondolas or pletna that ferry less energetic visitors across to the island.

Arriving at the island, my sense of achievement and self-congratulation outweighed the exhaustion and aching of my arms.
We couldn't swim all the way here and not see the beautiful Church of the Assumption. But be warned the church is strictly Catholic and does not allow anyone to visit unless they are at least wearing a t-shirt.

The church contains colourful frescos and a beautiful gilt altar. But most of the visitors to the church are there for one thing. Legend has it that if you manage to ring the church's bell; your wish will come true. As a result expect to hear the echo of bell ringing bouncing off the mountainsides from dusk till dawn. As I ascended the altar to pull the spartan rope connected to the bell, I felt under quite some pressure with the entire church's gaze on me, but I managed it and made my wish.

Safely back in our hotel, we settled down to a dinner of mushroom risotto and tender venison, on the terrace. As dusk fell, we finished our desserts to some good old Frank Sinatra, played by the hotel's pianist. Vila Bled is one of the most luxurious hotels in Slovenia and was originally built as a palace for the Yugoslavian royal family. For more reasonably priced accommodation, the hostel at Bled was the first, and is probably the best, in Slovenia. A shared room costs SIT3,000 (¥1,690) per person. (The currency of Slovenia is the Tolar.)

The next day, our sights were set on Bled castle (Blejski Grad). Despite the fact that the castle and its battlements tower over the entire valley, it only takes about 20 minutes to reach, as the path is direct and easy to climb. The spacious terrace offers amazing views over the lake and the Triglav National Park. Even if you are there on an overcast day as we were, there is something magical about the view with the wisps of low level cloud below you. Unfortunately the interior of the castle is not as spectacular as its panorama. The castle's furniture is sparse and most of the pieces that there are, are inauthentic. Entrance to the castle is SIT600 (¥340).

For nightlife in Bled, head for Pub Bled, where the prices are very reasonable. The music is a mixture of contemporary pop music and Slovenian rock. There is no specific dance floor area, but somehow everyone still mana-ges to find space to dance. And if it gets a bit too steamy, there is a bustling terrace with views over the lake, on which to cool off.

Text & Photos: Charolette Duck

:: Featured Articles

:: FEATURE

Land of the Rising Star
Making a music career in Japan

:: TRAVEL

A Fairytale in the Midst of Mountains
Lake Bled, Slovenia

:: SPORT

Football Fandom — Japan Style
Sober football madness

:: Listings

:: CINEMA LISTINGS

Up to date cinema listings guide so you always know what's on, where and when!

:: ART

Best exhibitions + listings

:: EVENTS

Best events + listings

:: LIVE

Best gigs + listings

:: CLUB

Parties not to miss + listings

:: Also in this month's mag

:: FOOD

La Sevillana
Spanish Tapas Restaurant, Kita-horie

:: DRINK

Through Eireish Eyes
The Hill of Tara, Kyoto

:: TECH

Geocaching
Treasure hunting as a high-tech sport

:: READ

New releases and top ten paperback books

:: FILM

Reel reviews of the silver screen

:: PROFILE

Creative seduction
Roger Tibor Walch

:: NEWS

Domestic and international news

Ways & means

While in Bled, make sure you don't miss:

• The (other) beautiful Alpine lake, Lake Bohinji is noted for its tranquility and water sports, and is an easy 20-minute bus journey from Lake Bled.
• The Savica Waterfall. This 60-metre waterfall has cut a deep and impressive gorge, and is the source of Slovenian's longest river, the Sava Bohininjka. The noise produced sounds like unrelenting thunder and the air is heavy with moisture and spray. Entrance to the trail that leads to the waterfall is just SIT400 (¥225).
• For golfing enthusiasts, Bled boasts one
of the oldest golf courses in Central Europe. You just have to make sure that the stunning backdrop of the snow-capped Julian Alps doesn't distract you from your game.

When to go

Best time to visit is from June through September when the temperatures are
warm and the weather is dry.

How to get there

JAL Airways flies daily from Osaka to Ljubljana via Paris, Charles de Gaulle airport, in association with Air France

Internet resources

• E-Government of the Republic of Slovenia
http://e-gov.gov.si/e-uprava/english/index.jsp
• Government Public Relations & Media Office
www.uvi.si/eng
• Slovenian Landmarks
www.burger.si
• Ministry of Culture
www.sigov.si/mk
• Slovenian Tourist Board
www.slovenia-tourism.si