A Sapporo for all seasons

Sapporo, principal city of Hokkaido, Japan's most northern island, is the perfect summer or winter getaway. Whether you want to experience some of the finest powder snow or want to get away from the summer humi- dity, investigate Japan's fourth biggest city.

A train runs directly from Sapporo's New Chitose Airport to JR Sapporo station deliver-ing you right into the heart of your adventure. You don't have to be from New York City to appreciate Sapporo's numbered grid system with makes navigating as simple as 1, 2, 3 — or in this case 4 North, 2 East.

Most hotels are located around the station area between main sightseeing venues making getting about not so much easy as ridiculously easy.

Just south from the station are the subway stops Sapporo, Odori and Suskino which corral most of the locations you will be want-ing to see. Odori hosts the famous festivals Yuki Matsuri in the winter and Suskino hosts lots of eateries and drinkeries all year round.

You can start the tourist trail and get your bearings both with a view of the city from a giddy perch. Although the TV tower is recomm-ended, the JR tower at 38 stories offers a more comfortable and higher outlook. The ascent will set you back ¥1,000, but you get a panoramic view and reasonably priced coffee into the bargain.

Another sight is the clock tower — or tokei-dai — which is located in Odori and is one of the city's most famous landmarks. The clock tower includes a small museum of the history of the city which costs ¥200. The Old Prefectural Office in the north of the city has its own exhibit which is a very satisfying complement — and it's free. The prefectural office houses The Archives of Hokkaido inclu-ding a selection of documents, photographs and personal items from the Meiji period and which provides a true insight to events. Be aware that English language support in many museums is not as thorough as it could be.

Back in the centre of town, Hokkaido University has extensive grounds, which make up one of the oldest campuses in Japan. Not far away, the city's botanical garden, complete with the country's biggest range of flora.

For yet more history, head for Greater Sapporo's Hokkaido historical village — or Kaitaku-No-Mura. This large outdoor museum houses over 60 traditional structures from the Meiji and Taisho periods. Wander around the 54-hectare, four-village areas of the Town, Fishing Village, Farm Village and Mountain Village to take a step back in time — and even wonder into the buildings to witness dis-plays and exhibits. Restrooms and refreshme-nts are readily available and you can enjoy a horse carriage ride in summer or sleigh ride in winter. To get to the village, take a bus from Shin-Sapporo station or Shinrin-Koen station.

There is a place where botany meets history — Sapporo beer garden and museum will both edify and intoxicate. Enjoy all-you-can-eat offers with the popular 100 minutes Genghis-Khan meat feast which will set you back ¥3,400. All-you-can drink offers are also available for those for whom Gengkis Khan is a style of drinking. You can find this beer trap near Higashi-Kuyakusho-mae subway station on the Toho line out of exit 4.

Hokkaido is well known for its nosh and its specialties are often variations on a theme of seafood or ramen. Suskino hosts a number of crab places and ramen restaurants and time spent in this district brings many gastro-nomic rewards. If you can't find the place on the map, just follow your nose. The city also boasts a mixture of Indian, Thai and Italian restaurants. For something a little different, small cafe Cam Cam, (found off the west side of Tanuki-koji arcade) is cheap and cheerful with its mixed Asian menu and stock of beer.

Hokkaido's main city is different from its southern counterparts. Although still very much in Japan, the island's distinct history, distinctive weather conditions and pace of life make it a place unto itself. Sapporo is an energetic city that brings together the new and old in a vibrant, exciting fusion.

Text & Photos: Naheen Madarbakus