JAN 2006 :: 068

 

Shanghai surprise

Screaming, stifling and sensational — these are three words that might sum up the city of Shanghai. This city, on the east coast of China, is at once a commercial centre, a tourist hub and a place of endless movement.

China is one of those countries where no amount of preparation is enough to take in what you're about to experience. The countless images of numerous people, crowded streets, gorgeous food and an amazing collaboration of fascinating history and modern day changes do away with any preconceived notions you may have.

As you head out of the airport, the first thing you'll notice are the people. Indiscriminate shouting, calling names scrawled on cardboard signs, and taxi touts trying to get a fare, it's all endless fun. The consensus seems to be that when you're in a city with over 13 million people, you really have to shout to be heard.

The airport is about 45 minutes away from the city, so organize a transfer or use a taxi. Try to negotiate the price before getting in as the price may stray wayward by the time you reach your destination.

Shanghai's main tourist areas are The Bund, Old Shanghai, Nanjing and the Central District with lots to see and even more places to stay. Watch out for the Downtown area around Shanghai's main railway station which is convenient for a short commute to main touristy areas but can be dangerous at night when the unlikely lads come out to play.

Most of the cities in China are mammoth in size and would take more than a few days to explore. However, if you're stuck for time, stick to the highlights and enjoy Shanghai's cosmopolitan nightlife after sightseeing.

One of the best places to start is the historical Bund. Once Shanghai's answer to New York's Wall Street, The Bund hosts some of Shanghai's most dramatic architecture. Look out for a building with a huge crown shape acting as its roof for a glimpse of the old HSBC building from 1921.

A must is a Huangpu Jiang river cruise that will set you back the equivalent of about ¥400 yen for an hour trip. Longer trips are also available from the abundance of tour operators scattered along the riverside. Most tours concentrate on the central river section between the tourist tunnel and the Southern Nanpu Bridge. This is a great opportunity to check out the difference between new and old architecture on each side of the river and also for hotel spotting.

Next stop is the Pudong New Area. Living up to its name, modern-day sights include the Oriental Pearl Tower, the city's proud observa-tion deck building, which is a joint venture with the Shanghai History museum. It is one of the most outstanding sculptures on the East bank's skyline with its needle-like structure. To get there from the west bank, take the Bund tourist tunnel, a psychedelic experience of bright lights. The bank also features, amongst lots else, the Shanghai aquarium — why does every city seem to have one?

Leaving the Bund behind, head north to Huangpu Gongyuan. Formerly called 'The British Public Gardens', it prides itself on the traditional tea drinking customs the traveler can experience within it's tea houses. The gardens offer a nice stroll with lots of surrounding greenery. The area is close to the shopping district of Nanjing and the area is crammed with restaurants and bars. If you're looking for a cool bevvy, check out the Fest Beer House on Hankou Lu for some of the biggest — and best — beer servings in town.

Moving on, Nanjing is a shopping heaven for anyone who has any amount of money to spend. Whether its brand names or something cheap and cheerful that will make your wardrobe a little happier, the long Nanjing Lu is bound to have something to please. Known as China's Golden Mile, this long stretch starts from the central Peace Park area and heads East toward The Bund. The area is also the best place to find delicacies from different countries. It even has an Irish pub.

Old Shanghai lies on the other side of Nanjing, making the city quite compact and the main attractions easy to find. The difference between new and old is blatant again as you turn from one back street to another. This is especially apparent when in French town, a small tranquil area behind the busy Nanjing shopping street, full of relaxed locals and home owners. Many of the apartment blocks feature quaint French style balconies and doorways of a style you can still see in France today.

So that brings us to nightlife. How can you drink or dance the night away in Shanghai? Well, the choices are endless but unfortunately clubbing in this town will set you back as much as a night out in Osaka. If you're ready to spend ¥5,000 to ¥10,000 for a night out (do the math — that's loads of money in China), then local guides are at the ready to lead you to the fun.

Some of the popular venues include the Er Ding Ma Bar in Hongkou which is a popular hang out for locals and tourists alike but can get crowded at weekends. For some live music action, try the Blowing In The Wind Bar on Huashan Lu, which offer folk, alternative and blues performances, to name but a few genres. Check out the local media when you get there
to see what else is on.

Shanghai is the perfect destination for your first taste of China. The mixture of new and old town embraces the changes that the country has undergone since the Cultural Revolution.

Be prepared for a country that is not afraid to do things differently and get ready to get your hands dirty if you want to experience the real China.

Text: Naheen Madarbakus
Photos: Naheen Madarbakus & Jessica Chan

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What else did I want to mention?

Shanghai has an easy-to-use subway system. It is divided into three lines, and there are signs in English. Metro maps are available in tourist guides. Don't forget to run for a seat when the train pulls into the station!

Restaurants are dotted all around the city. Aside from the obvious Chinese, there is also Indian, Japanese and others. The prices are usually pig-out low.

This cultural city has a range of museu-ms. Highlights include ShanghART, the Art Gallery, the Natural History Museum and the Museum Of Chinese Sex Culture.

The People's Park and People's Square are central in Shanghai and are important parts of the city's history. Check out the plaques around the park and also the central waterfall feature near the exhibition hall.

You can change money at one of the numerous banking halls. The Bank Of China offers the best rates but most hotels present a decent exchange too. You'll need to have your passport handy.

DO NOT by any means drink any water in Shanghai. This includes having ice in drinks and also using tap water to brush your teeth. Use bottled water at all times — even when you are boiling water to make tea or coffee.