Stairway to heaven

Taking a stroll to Everest base camp in Nepal

“Look! The runway slopes up,” I said to my friend in amazement as we peered out the small window of the Twin Otter prop plane.

“And look at the cliff in front of it,” he replied. We could barely hear each other over the sound of the engines. Some passengers had wadded up the cotton the cabin attendant gave us and stuck it in their ears to block the noise.

A little bump, a short bounce and we landed in Lukla, the highest airport (2,880m) in Nepal. Forty five minutes earlier we were standing on the tarmac in Kathmandu ready to board a Yeti plane equipped with 19 seats.

Since we did not have an itinerary we sat in a coffee shop next to the airport and watched the planes. Up they went to slow down, and down they returned in a mad rush to clear the void before catching air back to Kathmandu.

“Let's grab our gear and go,” I said. “We need to get to Phadkding before nightfall.” Around 10am we started walking to our first tea house for the night. The sky was liquid blue and the mountains were stunning. The trail was easily marked with signs pointing the way - up! We were headed to Everest Base Camp.

Small wood/brick hotels are called “tea houses” because they offer milk tea to Nepali porters that carry heavy loads along the trail. They provide basic accommodation: two small wooden beds with foam mattresses per room and detached toilet. There is no heater in the room meaning you need a sleeping bag at night. Extra blankets are free of charge. Wood/kerosene/yak dung stoves are located in the dining room. Tuck a hot water bottle in your sleeping bag before bed! Most tea houses charge ¥100 to ¥200 a night. Meals like dhal baht - rice, vegetables and lentil soup are also offered in the hotel.

Pine trees, green grass and blooming flowers can be seen along the dirt trail to Phakding. The river rushes past you as you walk and some vegetable farms dot the landscape.

“It's hot,” I said as the bright sun shone directly on me.

“Drink some water,” my friend said. “You don't want to get dehydrated,” he commented.

Water is your best friend. Drink it! A lot! Especially at altitude! Carry a water filter or water purifier tablets as well as a good bottle. Also, stop along the way for hot lemon tea.

“Don't look down,” he said while facing the long-narrow hanging bridge over the river. “Can I grab your shoulder while we walk across?” I asked with acrophobia on my mind.

“No problem,” he grinned. “Just make it snappy.”

Part of the charm and challenge of the hike is crossing the suspension bridges hung between steep ledges next to the river. One-way travel is best!

The trail to Phakding is easy - a walk in the park. Going to Namche Bazaar is another story.

Leave early in the morning. The walk to Namche is relaxing until you cross the final bridge after the Sagarmatha National Park check point. (You need to buy a park permit before going on.) From here the trail gets steep. Take your time and rest along the way. If you are lucky and the sky is clear you will glimpse Everest for the first time at the top. Most trekkers reach Namche in the afternoon.

Bazaar is an apt name for Namche. Pool tables, American sized washers and driers, trekking gear, CDs, the internet, pizza, fresh bread, wine, chocolate, and yak dolls can be found in this center for Sherpa culture surrounded by snow capped mountains at 3,445 meters. Anything you forgot in Kathmandu can be bought here.

“Nice to meet you,” Ang Lhakpa said as we shook hands in the Zamling Guest House. His hands were rough, his hair was grey, and the deep wrinkles off-set the features in his round-brown face. His broad smile was typical of Nepali Sherpas.

“Be ready to leave at 9am tomorrow,” he said after telling me he had been on 15 Everest expeditions.

A porter/guide can be hired in Kathmandu, Lukla, or Namche. Expect to pay roughly ¥2,000 yen a day for their service. Include a tip too!

“Look out,” my friend said on the trail from Namche to Tengboche. I glanced up in time to see a caravan of yaks headed toward me.

“Step up on the side of the trail opposite the ledge,” Ang said as he directed us into the proper position.

Clank, ding, dong went the yaks as they passed by us. Their heavy neck bells music in the thin air.

Yaks are a vital source of transportation in the Solukhumbu region. They carry essential items like cooking oil, kerosene, and food. Their low slung bodies and thick wool make them ideal animals for the mountains. Everest climbers would not make it to the summit without the use of Yaks.

Before arriving in Tengboche (3,863m), you pass through colorful rhododendron forests, deep valleys, and get spectacular views of the mountains including Ama Dablam (6,696m). Wild pheasants with purple plumage and mountain goats can be glimpsed in the brush.

Tengboche is a good place to rest because you can visit the monastery. Don't miss the Buddhist prayer services conducted daily by the monks!

“I'm okay,” My friend said. “Are you?”

“Yeah, no headache.” From Tengboche to Gorak Shep, the one thing every trekker has on their mind is Acute Mountain Sickness. AMS can be fatal, but most people can prevent it by ascending slowly, sleeping well, and drinking plenty of liquids.

“Dingboche is our next destination,” Ang said as he pointed to the map. “It is higher than Periche, and provides us with more time to acclimatize.”

We stayed two nights in Dingboche (4,400m), one night in Dugla (4,600m), and a night in Lobuche (4,931m) before pushing on to Gorak Shep.

Stark-barren snowy ground and rocks the size of cars greet you along the way. You also pass by the craggy Khumbu Glacier before reaching the tea houses in Gorak Shep (5,170m). From here you can see Nupste, Pumori, Lhotse and other towering peaks.

“Are you ready?” Ang said as he looked at the two of us with walking sticks in hand.

“Let's go!” we said in unison as we focused on Kalla Patthar (5,550 m) in front of us.

Three hours later at 10am we were on top looking directly at Mt. Everest (8,850m), the tallest mountain in the world. We could also see Everest Base Camp and the Khumbu Ice Fall. Looking down at the trail that Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay blazed in 1953 to scale the world's highest mountain, I felt awe, exhaustion, and exhilaration at making my own milestone in achieving the trek of a lifetime in the Solukhumbu region of Nepal.

Text & photos: Timothy L Willis