A spin through ancient Japan

Away from cars, big town noises and concrete, the Kibi Plain offers one of the most historical and beautiful paved bicycle paths through the flourishing countryside of Okayama Prefecture.

On a recent trip to Okayama, my partner and I decided to see what the Kibi Plain Bicycle Trail had to offer. We encountered the legend of Momotaro and the imaginary Oni monsters, ancient tombs, a magnificent five-story pagoda, stunning temples and shrines and lots of smiles, while enjoying a gentle breeze on our faces and the warm sun on our backs.

As far back as AD 400, the narrow Kibi Plain was a significant cultural region. This prosperous area is rich with legends and ancient sites; many of which are located on the well-marked 15 kilometre long trail or close to it. The Kibi Plain Bicycle Route is one of many bicycle paths constructed by the government since the 1970s. An easy ride over rolling hills and through the plains, the trail officially begins and ends at either Soja Station or Bizen- Ichinomiya Station.

We arrived at Soja Station just before 9am and swiftly picked out our bikes for the day at the shop beside the station main exit. After hiring two bikes and reviewing the complimentary trail map with the shop owner, we cycled through the quiet streets of Soja, past the massive sports complex and headed into the plains.

Within a couple of kilometres, after passing the Sumotoriyama Burial Mound, we came across one of the most remarkable landmarks and the symbol of the Kibiji District: Bitchu Kokobunji, an 8th century Buddhist temple that was commissioned to bring peace in the provinces and the awe-inspiring five-story 17th century pagoda. Nearby, we found the foundation stones of Bitchu Kokubunniji Convent, the excavated Komorizuka Burial Mound, which can be entered to view an ancient stone coffin and the Kibiji Archaeological Museum.

At this point, an optional detour three kilometres north off the trail will lead to the birthplace of the famous artist Sesshu (1420- 1506). Once a novice monk, he was renowned for his famous Japanese style paintings and practising asceticism in Iyama Hohukuji, a zen Temple. Legend states that he drew a rat with his tears there. As we continued our easy ride over rolling hills and through the plains along the official route, we passed the enormous 5th century Tsukuriyama-kofun Burial Mound that rises from the surrounding plain. One of many ancient tombs built in the area between AD 4 and AD 7, the 350-metre long keyhole-shaped hill is the largest burial mound in Japan.

We followed the flowing waters of the Ashimori River and stopped for a picnic lunch at a picnic table under the trees. We enjoyed the silence and were entertained by the farmers working in the fields and the birds that closely followed them, hoping to find their squiggly lunches in the freshly turned soil.

Half an hour later, back on the trail, we pedalled past Koikui Shrine, a shrine connected with the legendary figure Kibitsuhiko, one of Japan’s most popular folk heroes.

A couple of kilometres further along the path, at the base of Mt. Naka, we found Kibitsu Shrine, one of the biggest and oldest Shinto shrines in Japan. We parked our bikes and climbed a wide flight of steps to the hilltop where the main shrine and sanctuary, built in 1425 and designated as National Treasures, magnificently rest above the countryside.

Kibitsu Shrine is dedicated to Prince Kibitsuhiko, the model for the legendary Momotaro (Peach Boy). According to historical accounts, the Imperial Court of Yamato dispatched Kibitsuhiko to conquer Kibi Province. Shrine lore states that his expedition was commissioned to eliminate a troublesome ogre named Ura. Kibitsuhiko camped where Kibitsu Shrine now stands. The Prince shot menacing arrows, which Ura struck down with mountains of rocks. Then, Kibitsuhiko cleverly shot two arrows at once and hit Ura in the eye. Ura transfigured into a carp and swam away in a gushing river of blood. Today, in Koikui Shrine, speckled yellow, orange, white and red carp swim lazy circles in the beautiful pond surrounded by manicured gardens.

We pedalled another 10 minutes to Kibitsuhiko Shrine, a large Shinto Shrine, circled its beautiful pond surrounded with large red lanterns and headed back along the route we came.

We easily completed the round trip trail within a few hours and passed a dozen or two other cyclists on the trail. There are a handful of vending machines along the path and occasionally the route passes close enough to a main road to sidetrack for food. The trail is paved and well-marked with big blue signs. Accessing fifteen ancient sites, the extensive Kibi Plain Bicycle Trail network represents just one of many cycling possibilities in Japan.

If you still find yourself with some time and energy after completing the trail, then the Kibiji Local Museum, with its collection of excavated goods and occasional archaeological lecture or the Soja Town Museum are interesting visits.

Getting there

From Kurashiki, take the JR Hakubi Line two stops to Soja Station. From Okayama, take the JR Kibi Line three stops to Bizen-Ichinomiya Station. The bike trail can be accessed from either station. Bicycle rentals are available at both stations (9am – 6pm daily, ¥400/2 hours or ¥1,000/day). Bikes can be returned at either station as some people choose to ride the trail one-way and others complete the round trip.

Text & photos: Laura Markslag