Winter wonderland: Otaru

Take this KS Travel Quiz!
In what city can you:
1) Make something yourself inside a real glass-blowing studio?
2) Take a romantic stroll along a picturesque canal?
3) Lounge in hot springs until you are a raisin?
4) Listen to hundreds of music boxes until you must make your own?
5) Eat sumptuous sushi with locally brewed beer or sake?

Well, if you guessed Sapporo, thanks for trying but at least you got the right island. Nestled on the coast just 40 minutes northwest of Sapporo lies the perfect winter getaway, Otaru. This little town, perfect for strolling around on foot, was once the financial hub of Hokkaido in its herring-fishing days. If you want to escape somewhere this winter, this is the place to go.

Many historic buildings have been preserved along Sakai-machi Street, the tourist heart of Otaru. Practice your reading skills on the Rosetta Stone-cum-information plaques stationed outside each place of interest written in Japanese, Russian, Chinese, English and Korean.

Museums and emporiums abound in Otaru, but don't let the word 'museum' scare you off! Take time to explore (just to name a few) the glass museums, music box emporiums, the Transportation Museum, the Kitanohomare Shusenkan Sake Museum and the Bank of Japan Museum if you are really brave. For something really old, check out the wall carvings of the Temiya Caverns dating to approximately 1,600 years ago.

After all that walking and your triumphant success decorating your own music box, take a seat in 'K's Blowing' and try your hand at blowing your own glass, vase or ashtray for about ¥2,000. The staff speak some English so don't worry about recreating the monstrosity of your Grade 3 clay-molding art class. They will make certain your creation comes out looking smashing but not smashed. Feel free to watch the professionals from the street for as long as you like at K's or at Kitaichi Glass Emporium.

The Otaru Orgel Emporium, which has a real steam-whistle clock out front modeled after the one in Vancouver's Gastown, is worth at least an hour by itself; two if you try your hand making your own music box. Not every music box has the same tune so test your musical knowledge. Keep an eye peeled for the Otaru Orgel Doh Antique museum that gives live performances on a pipe organ and other antique musical delights.

Don't hold back from temptation as you pass the many patisse- ries and chocolatiers. Search out the Darjeeling tea chocolates and the chocolate covered potato chips! Your mouth will thank you. Leave room for some renowned Otaru sushi! Wash it down with some locally brewed beer or sake for a complete experience. Otaru's many markets may have what you are looking for if you can't find it in a restaurant.

Now that your palate is sated, or even if you're still hungry, walk down along the famous beautiful canal, the Otaru Unga, and browse the vendors' wares or listen to the buskers play. Be sure to inspect the engravings along the canal wall depicting Otaru's history. Browse through the shops in the warehouses alongside the canal or stop for a spot of tea.

If all of this isn't enough to entice you north, then perhaps the promise of skiing and hot springs is. Located a short bus ride from Otaru is Asarigawa, a cluster of hot springs and ski slopes you can visit for the day or stay overnight in a hotel and truly pamper your- self. Mount Tengu and Snow Cruize Onze are also nearby if one ski area isn't enough.

For two days or five, Otaru can deliver enough rest and relaxation or downhill excitement to make it a regular vacation destination. So where are you going this winter?

Text: Amanda Hare • Photo: Rocky Femia

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Getting there

JR train: 75 min from New Chitose Airport or 40 min from Sapporo. English maps and info available at the Tourist Info Desk in JR Otaru. Tel: 0134-24-3355 (10am-4pm)