Ski suki
Hakuba and Matsumoto, Nagano
Just a night-ride away from Osaka lays a skiers' paradise. Even
though the ski-fields of Hakuba in Nagano are not comparable
in length to the ones in Europe and America, the landscape and
views are as stunning and the facilities do match both.
After booking a five-day trip into the snow we left in a superluxury
bus from Umeda for the over night trip to Hakuba. With
many detours to pick everybody up and some generous stops
during the night we got there early in the morning, being dropped
off in front of the Shakespeare Hotel which actually comes
across in a very old English manner. The large icicles dripping
down from the roof gave a hint of the amount of snow to come.
Despite the resort's non-lavish size, it provided enough slopes
for all levels and also enough variety. Wide, rather flattish areas
invite beginners to practise turning and falling over without
constantly having to look over their shoulder in anticipation of an
accident. Other slopes however provide steep descents, narrow
paths through the forest, and an overall more challenging terrain
for advanced skiers.
On top of the mountain snowshoes and cross-country skis were
for rent. The cross-country slope was untouched when we set
out because it had snowed the night before. The landscape was
of a postcard quality - almost kitschy in its beauty. The snow
glazed the scenery and gave each tree a large snow head. The
resort was rather empty but the amount of restaurants - we
could eat at a different place every day - revealed that they
expect a larger crowd.
My favourite place, however, was a little restaurant just inside
the forest and covered in snow like a gingerbread house. The four
or five tables inside were decked with embroidered tablecloths,
and the china reminded on the set my grandmother used to
bring out on special occasions. This and the fact, that the cafe/
restaurant was only accessible on ski or by foot added to its
quaint atmosphere.
A downside to the area where we stayed was that there was no
après ski to be found. Being spoiled form European ski resorts in
the alps we were expecting mulled wine on each corner after four
o'clock. There are some nice jazz bars, restaurants, etc. but the
social event of après ski we could not find.
While in Hakuba a day-trip to Matsumoto is a must. The train
ride through the snow covered landscape takes approximately
one hour. Matsumoto itself has a number of historic places to
visit. The most spectacular however is Matsumoto-jo a stunning
castle in the north of the city. It is surrounded by a moat and a
garden, towers majestically in front of mountain scenery and is
unobstructed by modern buildings. Built in 1593 Matsumoto-jo
is the oldest wooden castle tower in Japan.
On the way from the station to the castle and along the riverbank
lays Nawate Street. A variety of traditional buildings and
shops provide souvenirs of the area as well as a glance into the
good old times since the shops are situated in traditional houses.
Leaving Hakuba and Matsumoto our little group of stressed
city people felt fully refreshed after having had a good workout,
fresh air and our fill of views of the serene landscape.
Text: Tanja Poppelreuter • Photo: Gary Quigg
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