Natural monuments
Akame Shiju-hattaki Falls
Raging rapids and breathtaking waterfalls, surrounded
by lush green forests and a mysterious legend – this is
where Japan's precious natural monuments, the giant
salamanders, call home.
With a strong desire to escape the skyscrapers
and pachinko parlours, a friend
and I hopped into her car and headed out
to Mie Prefecture. There are many beautiful
places to visit in Mie but one location
was truly outstanding: Akame Shiju-hattaki
Falls. Literally 48 waterfalls, Akame Shijuhattaki
is a collective term for some 50
waterfalls in the Takigawa Valley, which
flows along the border between Mie and
Nara Prefectures. Situated at the centre of
the Murou Akame Aoyama National Park,
the spectacular waterfalls that cascade
through this narrow valley have earned
Akame Shiju-hattaki Falls a spot on Japan's
100 finest waterfalls list as well as recognition
as one of Japan's 100 best forests. The
name Akame, or red eyes, originates from
legendary tale of Fudo Myo-o, or Buddha
of Fire, who revealed himself here while
riding an ox with red eyes.
Arriving at the gateway of the park we
had to pay a small admission fee. This
included access to the Japan Salamander
Centre where we saw amphibians from
all over the world, including the protected
native giant salamanders, considered
"living fossils". Within a two-minute walk
from the centre we came across the first
of many waterfalls. We walked along the
four-kilometre upstream path, encountering
waterfalls of all heights and rapids of
all sizes. Some of the waterfalls were
absolutely spectacular: some were high,
some were broad and some were simply
a tiny dribble. We enjoyed the sound of
the trickling water as we dipped our toes
into the stream and jumped from one boulder
to another.
 The cedar-guarded path led us up through
the valley and as we crossed the bridges
we admired the lush green moss covered
stones. Unfortunately, we didn't see
salamanders in the wild. However, we
were told that if we looked closely into
the clear ponds on a quiet day that we
just might be lucky enough to come across
some of the prehistoric giant creatures in
the shallow waters.
Akame Shiju-hattaki Falls are accessible
year-round and each season in the Takigawa
Valley offers visitors a distinctive experience.
Along the hike the highlights of the valley
are easily recognized by the amount of
"hikers" posing in front of them with their
best "peace" signs. These highlights include
the five major falls of Akame, namely the
Fudo Falls, Senju Falls, Nunobiki Falls,
Ninai Falls and Biwa Falls.
As with most things, nature rewards
those that persevere and at the end of
the hike is the magnificent Gankutsu Falls.
Most people turn around when they reach
Gankutsu Falls or even earlier if they get
tired and go back to the park entrance
along the same path. However, it is possible
to continue past Gankutsu Falls and
follow an unofficial trail overland for a
couple of hours. This trail winds downhill
to a road where you can catch a bus that
occasionally passes by and can bring you
back to the station.
Text: Laura Markslag • Photos: Audrey Maloney
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