London, Milan, Paris …
Orange Street

Underground style in downtown Osaka

I was first introduced to this ultra trendy of streets by a friend who used to assist in wardrobe procurement for Japan's celebrities. I was bemoaning what I felt was Osaka's lack of fashion spunk. The kind where people made their own quietly bold styles, where they weren't afraid of opting out of those uninspiring, cookiecutter pieces of this season's apparent must haves.

Orange Street, also known as Tachibana Dori, is the underground fashionista's paradise – and a savings plan's worst nightmare. Happily, however, Orange Street is devoid of the pretentious froufrou glamour and prices that are evident of Mr Vuitton and friends, preferring looks that are confidently individual, understated, yet head-turning.

Despite the delicious styles of the area, shoppers need not feel obliged to dress to impress. Stores touting secondhandchic reside comfortably among shoe specialists, Mom & Pop tobacco outlets, and higher-priced clothing boutiques – known in Japan as select shops. Headgear authority CA4LA – pronounced kashira – is one of at least two stores pandering to shoppers' needs to decorate their melons. At the time of writing, JUNK, located after crossing the main road that separates Orange Street in two, offered an array of very funky Bakelite mah-jong bracelets, sourced from the US.

Clothing styles are various, ranging from the whimsical, the slightly gothic, to the somewhat canine. Catering to those who are practising parenthood by first accessorising with a puppy, Orange Street's dog café provides strollers, clothing, squishy toys and super high-tech leads – some of which could pass for a police Taser – for your furry loved one. Oddly enough, all of this store's goods also seem suitable for one's actual human baby.

Furniture outlets are another feature of Orange Street, exhibiting the gloriously retro, through to the giddily Scandinavian. Past the bulk of these, is a gay pride store that carries a large array of gorgeous dresses for drag queens. They also sell other costume varieties, which may be useful for that Loop Line run come Halloween 2007.

The contents of the buildings on Orange Street aren't the only stylistically appealing aspects of the area. The buildings themselves are a reflection of the unique and alternative style that is what Orange Street is all about. The Jeanasis/Lowry's Farm building is but one example, with its combination of textures and curves. If you are into Junya Watanabe's occasionally eccentric, but totally wearable designs, these two stores sometimes house similarly flavoured fashion, sans all those extra digits on the price tag.

It is impossible to miss the striking red And A building. This company prides itself on stocking quirky accessories, cloth- ing, cameras, books and art, sourced domestically and internationally. And A also often holds exhibitions of local artists' work, such as that of rising talent Mai Miyake. Some of the buildings take haute couture architecture a bit too far - one looking like Christ's tomb from the outside, while containing just one, glass box-encased ¥11,000 T-shirt on the inside.

Stores dedicated to zakka - designer home décor, handicraft, accessories and gifts - are also dotted around Orange Street and its surrounds. dent-de-lion regularly showcases handmade goods from local designers, such as Jyatoco's intricately embroidered buttons, OGiSO's quirky bags, and Kansai 3D illustrator kana's rabbit-themed works.

Relaxed and welcoming cafés and restaurants are also located every few meters, ensuring that shoppers will have enough stamina to keep them going. Parallel to Orange Street is banana-coloured and popular Vietnamese restaurant Chao Lua, offering two levels of beautiful food and atmosphere. For readers needing a dose of burger deliciousness, all is well in the world, for there is the unadulterated burger joint, Ata-go.

Best visited on a not-so-rainy day, Orange Street lies tucked away beyond the Triangle Park side of Shinsaibashi, and will certainly keep shoppers and browsers alike entertained for hours. Perhaps if visitors are lucky, they too, will be welcomed by the girl with the large, stuffed toy armadillo wrapped around her head.

Text: Samantha Loong • Photo: KS