Cut to the stone

Ishikiri is a fountain of health and healing and has more fortunetellers than you could wave your palm at.

For people who are ill, seeking help from a Shinto source is as routine as hanging the futon outside. This health imparting sacred spot can be found in the foothills of the Ikoma mountain range, a pebble’s throw from Ikoma city, and goes by the name of Ishikiri (literally “stone cutting”).

Ishikiri shrine, dedicated to the Shinto god of illness and disease, is one of the least known but holiest of shrines in Kansai and one of the few shrines where everyone prays (you would too, if you only had a few months to live).

The shrine itself is about a 15-minute downhill walk from Ishikiri station, and getting there is one of the best parts, as Ishikiri is the Town that Time Forgot. Devoid of pachinko parlours, chain restaurants, and even convenience stores, the main street is a wonderfully diverse mixture of clothing stores, hair salons, produce stands, sweets stalls, noodle shops, and fortunetellers.

I’ve always been a little reticent about visiting a fortuneteller in Japan, but I vowed on the uphill return climb to pay a visit. Perhaps my approach would help anyone visiting the shrine: take note of the most interesting places on the way down and visit them on the return trip. There’s nothing worse than settling for a dodgy-looking, substandard, hole-inthe- wall noodle joint only to find a quaint, healthy and organic one less than a block away.

After taking meticulous mental notes, I arrived at the shrine to find a den of activity. Sure, it was a Sunday morning, but I didn’t expect to see a hoard of worshippers walking in an endless clockwise oval in front of the shrine. Little did I know that they were participating in the Ohyakudou — the “100 path”.

Two stone posts, placed about 10 meters apart, positioned between the torii and the shrine, await those who are suffering from cancer or other serious diseases. Worshippers pick up a white wire counter, and each time they complete one rotation, they fold down a wire. This technique makes it much easier to keep count, and the worshippers can stay focused on prayer. Some would step out of line and pray in front of the shrine after each lap completed, while others just seemed content on finishing as quickly as possible.

After completion, the counter is dropped off in a box at the front of the shrine.

I refrained from participating, however, because it’s bad luck for a healthy person to do the walk, as the Shinto god will strike revenge for channeling energy unnecessarily. Relatives of cancer and accident victims are exempt as long as they pray for the health of their loved ones during the walk. From the look of things, I’d say that most people are frequent visitors and brave the elements all year round in hopes of finding a way headed uphill for my long-anticipated psychic encounter. I chose a fortuneteller on gut feeling, but with several dozen to choose from, it wasn’t as easy task. Tesou (palm readings) go from ¥500 to ¥1,000, while more extensive tarot readings and personal consultations will set you back about ¥3,000 or so. I sat down with a charming middle-aged woman, who, after looking at my palm and asking for my date of birth proceeded to tell me that: 1) I was born to be a teacher, 2) I’d better be careful when riding my bicycle, and 3) watch out for the ladies. Sound advice, indeed.

I used this opportunity to get some much-needed info about the area. The area has been unchanged for decades, and the first fortunetellers arrived just before the war. Originally there were only two, but over time it’s blossomed and become famous for not only fortune tell- ing, but also for Chinese medicine. None of the fortunetellers speak English, but can offer a graded explanation to cater to different Japanese abilities (but it’s helpful to either know some basic Japanese or to bring an interpreter). Taking pictures of the fortunetellers is OK, but it’s better to be polite as in any situation and ask first. Also, try not to take pictures while they are consulting with other clients.

So, the next time you or a loved one is stricken with a serious illness, or if you just want to experience a bit of unspoiled, rustic Japan, hop on the train to stone cutter village, and be prepared to be enlightened.

Text: Wes Lang Photos: KS, Wes Lang