The sacred menagerie

Shrines and their animal spirits

Animism — the belief that natural, non-human objects can also contain souls — has a heavy influence on Japanese Shinto, as well as an enormous effect on local pop culture (see the Final Fantasy video game series, or any of Hayao Miyazaki’s movies, particularly Mononoke Hime and Sen to Chihiro). Local shrines and temples celebrate the existence of animals as mini-deities, luck-bringers and messengers of the gods; the following are a few of the more famous spots, as well as the animals (and reptiles, sometimes) they’re best known for.

Mt. Shigi Temple (Tiger)

The Japan National Tourist Association Web site helpfully notes that a “big sculpture of a tiger on the path attracts the attention of visitors.” This is something of an understatement, as the tiger the temple is known for (the biggest papier-mache tiger in the world, brochures happily tell visitors) is an eye-poppingly large piece of art (and a great photo op in a temple area full of them).

Getting there: Take the Kintetsu Ikoma line to Shigisan Shita station; take the Nara-Kotsu bus for the final 10 minutes to the mountain.


Fushimi Inari Shrine (Fox)

The fox, venerable trickster of a number of Japanese folk tales, is the guardian deity of Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari shrine. Though Fushimi is better known for the seeminglyendless string of torii gates (featured prominently in the film Memoirs of a Geisha) that enclose visitors, the beautiful, sharp-featured fox statues along the way are certainly worth a look.

Getting there: Take the JR Nara line to Inari Station, or the Keihan line to Fushimi Inari Station.


Kitano Tenmangu Shrine (Cow)

“Ushi-san,” the gleaming black cow in a permanent state of repose at the entrance to this Kyoto shrine, invitingly beckons visitors to rub it, and in doing so to partake in its prosperity (as well as, by way of association with the scholar entombed inside the shrine, its assistance in test-taking). The shrine also hosts a massive outdoor market every month on the 25th.

Getting there: Take the 201 bus from Keihan Demachiyanagi station, or the 50 or 101 bus from JR Kyoto station; exit at the Kitano Tenmangu-mae stop.


Mt. Hiei (Monkey)

The Enryakuji temple is a World Culture Heritage site, as well as a great place to introduce yourself to the concept of monkey lore and its connection with Japanese Buddhism. A troop of monkey statues – and some great sightseeing – await visitors who make it to the top. Interesting fact: the see-no-evil, hear-no-evil, speak-no-evil monkey triumvirate is rumored to have originated from Hiei!

Getting there: From JR Kyoto station, take the JR Tokaido-Sanyo Honsen line to Yamashina station; a cable car takes visitors to the top of the mountain.


Futami Okitama Shrine (Frog)

Though Mie’s Ise Shine – known as the holiest shrine in Japan – gets the bulk of the attention, the frogs of the Futami Shrine are certainly worth a look. Though there are no real frogs around, there are a number of stone frog statues surrounding the shrine (which, conveniently enough, also allows easy access to a view of the Meoto Iwa – Wedded Rocks – located in the Seto inland sea).

Getting there: From Namba, take the Kintetsu Toba Line to Toba station; the shrine is a 20-minute bus ride from the station.


Kasuga Shrine (Deer)

The deer of Nara are considered messengers of the gods, which is why no harm ever comes to the tamed creatures no matter how many small children they occasionally nip. The Kasuga shrine, founded in the 8th century, is as famous for the deer that surround it as it is for the thousands of stone and bronze lanterns that delight sightseers.

Getting there: From Namba Station, take the Kintetsu Nara line to Nara station. The shrine (as well as the deer-saturated Nara Park, which should not be missed) is a 20-minute walk from the station.

Text: Jeff Lo • Photos: Jatin Banker

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