The sacred
menagerie

Shrines and their animal spirits
Animism — the belief that natural, non-human
objects can also contain souls — has a heavy
influence on Japanese Shinto, as well as an
enormous effect on local pop culture (see
the Final Fantasy video game series, or any of
Hayao Miyazaki’s movies, particularly Mononoke
Hime and Sen to Chihiro). Local shrines
and temples celebrate the existence of animals
as mini-deities, luck-bringers and messengers
of the gods; the following are a few of the more
famous spots, as well as the animals (and
reptiles, sometimes) they’re best known for.
Mt. Shigi Temple (Tiger)
The Japan National Tourist Association Web site helpfully notes that a “big sculpture
of a tiger on the path attracts the attention of visitors.” This is something of
an understatement, as the tiger the temple is known for (the biggest papier-mache
tiger in the world, brochures happily tell visitors) is an eye-poppingly large piece of
art (and a great photo op in a temple area full of them).
Getting there: Take the Kintetsu Ikoma line to Shigisan Shita station; take the
Nara-Kotsu bus for the final 10 minutes to the mountain.
Fushimi Inari Shrine (Fox)
The fox, venerable trickster of a number of Japanese folk tales, is the guardian deity
of Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari shrine. Though Fushimi is better known for the seeminglyendless
string of torii gates (featured prominently in the film Memoirs of a Geisha)
that enclose visitors, the beautiful, sharp-featured fox statues along the way are
certainly worth a look.
Getting there: Take the JR Nara line to Inari Station, or the Keihan line to Fushimi
Inari Station.
Kitano Tenmangu Shrine (Cow)
“Ushi-san,” the gleaming black cow in a permanent state of repose at the entrance
to this Kyoto shrine, invitingly beckons visitors to rub it, and in doing so to partake
in its prosperity (as well as, by way of association with the scholar entombed inside
the shrine, its assistance in test-taking). The shrine also hosts a massive outdoor
market every month on the 25th.
Getting there: Take the 201 bus from Keihan Demachiyanagi station, or the 50 or
101 bus from JR Kyoto station; exit at the Kitano Tenmangu-mae stop.
Mt. Hiei (Monkey)
The Enryakuji temple is a World Culture Heritage site, as well as a great place to
introduce yourself to the concept of monkey lore and its connection with Japanese
Buddhism. A troop of monkey statues – and some great sightseeing – await visitors
who make it to the top. Interesting fact: the see-no-evil, hear-no-evil, speak-no-evil
monkey triumvirate is rumored to have originated from Hiei!
Getting there: From JR Kyoto station, take the JR Tokaido-Sanyo Honsen line to
Yamashina station; a cable car takes visitors to the top of the mountain.
Futami Okitama Shrine (Frog)
Though Mie’s Ise Shine – known as the holiest shrine in Japan – gets the bulk of
the attention, the frogs of the Futami Shrine are certainly worth a look. Though
there are no real frogs around, there are a number of stone frog statues surrounding
the shrine (which, conveniently enough, also allows easy access to a view of the
Meoto Iwa – Wedded Rocks – located in the Seto inland sea).
Getting there: From Namba, take the Kintetsu Toba Line to Toba station; the shrine
is a 20-minute bus ride from the station.
Kasuga Shrine (Deer)
The deer of Nara are considered messengers of the gods, which is why no harm
ever comes to the tamed creatures no matter how many small children they
occasionally nip. The Kasuga shrine, founded in the 8th century, is as famous for
the deer that surround it as it is for the thousands of stone and bronze lanterns that
delight sightseers.
Getting there: From Namba Station, take the Kintetsu Nara line to Nara station.
The shrine (as well as the deer-saturated Nara Park, which should not be missed)
is a 20-minute walk from the station.
Text: Jeff Lo • Photos: Jatin Banker
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