3, 2, 1, 2008!

Counting on some of the best countdown celebrtaions

The parties

New Year's Eve is the party night of the year for both the expats and locals. As a mark of this occasion's veneration, for this one night of the year there's no such thing as a last train. The trains run all night ferrying revelers and shrine-goers.

Just about every bar and club in Osaka is hosting some kind of celebration, so we'd like to highlight a few of the main events on this action packed Monday night.

No matter where you end up, be sure to follow one simple rule: get there early! It is a thoroughly boring way of seeing in the new year, stamping your feet outside a packed club while all of your mates are inside sipping sparkling champagne and soaking up the sounds.

Universal Studios Japan: Straight from Hollywood (or is it Florida?), Osaka's most famous foreign import hosts the mother of all countdown parties, complete with fireworks. In their six years of operation, the USJ party has been getting bigger and more flamboyant. This party wraps up at 2am and will set you back ¥7,900, but the ticket price includes park admission for January 1st. See www.usj. co.jp for more information.

WTC Cosmo Tower: Just across the bay, in the tallest building in Osaka, comes one of the most striking settings for a countdown party ever: the 55th floor observation deck. Welcome the year of the rat with panoramic views of the entire Kansai area, a birds eye view of the USJ fireworks, and some of the most talented DJs this city has to offer. Cashmere will be back in town from Vancouver, and South African transplant Brotherman is celebrating his new release on Osaka upstart Sushi records. Expect an action packed mix of house, breaks, minimal techno, drum n bass, electro, and nu jazz, as well as live painting and Capoeira. This party runs from 8pm to 2am and will cost ¥3,000 in advance and ¥3,500 at the door.

Tickets can be purchased at Cafe Absinthe, Cafe Slices, Cafe Digmeout, Cyder Records, and at all Lawson convenience stores. See: www.jaxxdafishworks.com/skylifeinfo-eng.html

Sam and Dave: The stalwart of the Kansai club scene celebrates its 20th year with gargantuan fiestas at all of their locations (Shinsaibashi, Umeda, Nagahoribashi, Kyoto, and Fukuoka). Expect a mirthful mix of free champagne, balloon drops, and funky music, as well as extra special anniversary giveaways.

Bring between two and a half to three crisp ¥1,000 bills for access to this legendary party den. 8pm to 5am (until 8am at Nagahoribashi) Check out www.samanddave.jp for the latest.

Dotonbori Bridge: If you're short of funds and looking for a unsanctioned gathering of would be partiers, then head to the bridge just before midnight to catch a Times Square inspired crowd, waiting for the non-existent ball to drop. No official clock? No problem. Every year the cops helplessly watch and start dispersing the crowd at precisely 0:00:01.

This is only a partial directory of the major parties taking place. Take look at the advertisements in these pages.

The prayers

For those of you looking for a more somber or traditional cele- bration, head to any temple just before midnight to partake in the joya no kane. This unique ceremony marks the annual ringing of the temple bell, a Buddhist purification ritual.

The bell is struck 108 times, once for each of the bodily temp- tations. Arguably the best place to experience this is Chion-in Temple in Kyoto, a short walk from Yasaka Shrine in the Higashiyama district. The bell at Chion-in is massive, weighing nearly 75 tons and putting the Liberty Bell to shame in terms of scale. Cast in the year 1636, the bell is an Important Cultural Property and one of the three great temple bells of Japan. (The other two are at Hokoji Temple in Kyoto and Todaiji temple in Nara). The ringing starts around 10:30pm and takes roughly an hour and a half. Most people tend to use their joya no kane visit as an opportunity to do hatsumode, the first shrine visit of the year. In fact, this is the main reason the trains run all night, to carry the hoards of worshipers to and from shrines.

Yasaka shrine in Kyoto is an obvious favorite, but Osaka Tenmangu and Sumiyoshi Taisha both compete for attention in the big city. The masses in Hyogo flock to either Ikuta Shrine in Sannomiya or nearby Minatogawa Shrine to pray for a successful year. In Nara, Kasuga shrine in Nara Park is a lovely place for a midnight stroll and a good chance to see some nocturnal wildlife as well. Further afield, Ise shrine in Mie Prefecture is the most famous shrine in all Japan and the one the Emperor usually chooses for his first sacred visit of the new year. Hatsumode lasts from January 1st to the 4th, and it's considered good luck to visit at least one shrine during this time period.

In addition to reverberating bells and sacred shrine sojourns, hatsuhinode rounds out the list of sober New Year's deeds. Hatsuhinode is the first sunrise of the New Year, occurring at precisely 6:50am this time around. Considered a sign of good luck, the masses either flock to their nearest summit or simply turn on the tube and watch from the warm comfort of their kotatsu. I'd personally recommend heading to the great outdoors to experience the dawning of 2008. Mt. Rokko is quite a popular place to gather, due in large part to the paved road that goes all the way to the top. Ditto for Mt. Ikoma, as access is not only helped by the Ikoma Skyline, but also by the cable car that starts a short distance from Ikoma station. If you're looking for a more secluded place, as well as some much needed exercise, then I suggest a trip to Mt. Nijo in Nara or Mt. Myoken near Mino. Closer to home, both the Umeda Sky Building and the WTC Cosmo Tower open their observation decks for viewing of the first sunrise. For a more unusual experience, consider booking a flight on either JAL or ANA for a special hatsuhinode flight. Leaving Kansai airport in the early morning hours and circling around Mt. Fuji in time to see the sun rise over the Pacific, these flights may already be fully booked, but keep it in mind for next year. Finally, the ultimate hatsuhinode experience would be to climb Mt. Fuji itself, although this would require winter climbing equipment and is not recommended for the inexperienced.

Text: Wes Lang