Five winter hikes

With winter in full swing, it's easy to make excuses for not hitting the great outdoors: shortened daylight hours, sudden snow squalls, the brisk wintry air, and the option of a warm, cosy doze inside under the kotatsu. However, winter hikes offer a completely different and contrasting experience to summer hikes - and much less sweat. Compiled here is a list of five hikes that warrant a winter visit, categorized by level of difficulty/risk. Hopefully this will whet your appetite for further backwoods exploration of the Kansai region.

Level: Easy (No crampons required. Sturdy footwear and a trekking pole are recommended)

Mt. Kurama, Kyoto

Nestled in a secluded valley in northern Kyoto, Kurama offers a unique chance to explore a picturesque mountainside temple, coupled with a rustic soak in one of Kansai's best outdoor baths. The key to this hike is the timing, as a fresh coat of snow transforms Kurama into a spectacular winter wonderland. Come during the week and you may find yourself sharing the train with only a handful of other outdoor enthusiasts. Exit the station and make your way up the hill to the top of the main shrine. Depending on the snow conditions, you should be relaxing with a snack at the top in about 45 minutes or so. There's also a cable car that will whisk you up (or down) the hill in no time at all. After exploring the temple complex, you can continue the climb up to the mountain ridge, or head to the hot spring back down in the village. There's a free shuttle bus from the station or you can just head north for about 15 minutes or so. The outdoor bath costs ¥1,100 and is open every day from 10am to 8pm.

Access: Take the Eizan line from Kyoto's Demachiyanagi station. Kurama is the final stop.
Map: www.e-kyoto.net/sanpo/rekishi/b04/kurama.htm

Mt. Kongo, Osaka

Rising gracefully from the firework-famous town of Tondabayashi, Mt. Kongo rivals Mt. Rokko in popularity, especially due to its accessibility and fame as the highest mountain in Osaka Prefecture. This hike is reduced to a lovely 100m stroll by utilizing the ropeway. The ropeway costs ¥700 one way (¥1,300 round trip) and operates from 9am to 5pm every day of the week. From the ropeway terminus, head uphill past the museum, picnic area, and lookout tower to join the main trail to the summit temple. You should be there in about an hour. Those wanting more of a workout could forgo the ropeway altogether, but you'll definitely need some crampons on the decent.

Access: Take the Kintetsu line from Abenobashi station in Tennoji to Tondabayashi station. From there, change to a Mt. Kongo ropeway-bound bus. Alternatively, you could take the Nankai Koya line from Namba station and get off at Kawachinagano station, changing to a bus from there.
Map: http://yamachizu.mapple.net

Level: Medium (Light crampons and a hiking stick are advised)

Mt. Takami, Nara/Mie

Nestled snugly on the border of Nara and Mie prefectures, this pyramidal shaped peak affords spectacular views of the entire Omine range, and even out to Mt. Fuji on a clear day. From the trailhead, the path climbs steeply for about an hour until reaching a fork. The left fork will take you directly to the summit via a steep icy path, but staying right will allow for a much easier approach to the top. Follow the trail for about 25 minutes until reaching Takamitoge. From there, head left for a steep assault of the 1,200m summit. This should take anywhere between 40 minutes and an hour, depending on snow conditions. The top of Mt. Takami holds not only a small shrine, but an emergency shelter, which is a perfect place to escape the freezing winds. After a quick snack, continue on the same trail down the icy north face, reaching a junction in about 20 minutes or so. The left fork will take you back to the bus stop, but continue straight for about another hour or so, and you can reward yourself with a nice hot spring bath at Katazumi Onsen. From the hot spring, you can catch a bus back to civilization.

Access: Take the Kintetsu Osaka Line from Namba station and get off at Haibara station. Change to a Sugitani-bound bus and get off at Takamitozanguchi bus stop. The bus takes about 90 minutes, and the express train about an hour, so make sure you get an early start.
Map: www.ma.ccnw.ne.jp

Mt. Ryuumon, Wakayama

One of the few hikes accessible directly from a train station, this dragon-shaped peak in Wakayama prefecture offers a nice aerobic workout and lovely rock formations along the way. From Kogawa station, head due south toward the hills, crossing the Kino River along the way. Follow the signs to Mt. Ryuumon until you hit the trailhead proper. From there, it's a quiet climb to Tashirotoge, where you'll reach the ridgeline. Turn right, where the trail climbs rather steeply, passing the magnetic rock along the way. The story is your compass will magically change directions when standing on top of the rock. Bring along a compass to find out. The summit itself is a broad flat area, perfect for an early afternoon nap or a chance to build a small snowman. Continue along the summit ridge and turn right at the next junction, bringing you back to where you started.

Access: Take the Nankai Koya line, and change to the JR Wakayama line at Hashimoto station. Take a local Wakayama-bound train and get off at Kogawa station.
Map: www5a.biglobe.ne.jp/~yamaken2/tizu/wakayama/
ryuumonyama/ryuumonyama20060505.htm

Difficult (Full crampons and an ice axe are essential)

Mt. Ibuki, Shiga

The crown of Shiga prefecture, Mt. Ibuki easily wins the award for the best panoramic view in the Kansai. From the bald summit, you can see Hakusan, The Kita, Chuo, & Minami Alps, all of Lake Biwa, and most of the city of Nagoya. That is, if the weather cooperates. Luckily, winter provides the best chance to see and explore Ibuki in it's entirety, but be forewarned that it's not an easy hike. With an elevation gain of over 1,000m and frequent avalanches, the mountain is not for the inexperienced. From the bus stop, climb through the recently renovated ski resort, steering clear of skiers/boarders. If short on time or energy, you could consider taking the gondola instead. Follow the ski lifts for about 90 minutes to their terminus. From there, it's a steep, relentless climb for about two and a half to three hours. Check the snow conditions frequently for avalanche danger and turn back if your compression tests fail or if the weather turns bad. Eventually the mountain will flatten out as you approach the summit, revealing a group of abandoned trinket shops and a frozen meteorological tower resembling a giant wedding cake. During the summer, you can drive to within 200m of the top, so enjoy the solitude and scenic beauty during the off-season. Bring snowboard or skis for a quick decent back the way you came or consider camping out on the summit.

Access: From Kyoto, take the JR Tokai line to Maibara station, changing to a local train bound for Gifu-hachiman. Get off at Omi-nagaoka and change to a bus bound for Ibukiyamatozanguchi.
Map: http://yamachizu.mapple.net

Text and photos: Wes Lang