Kinki
romance
February is the month
of Valentine's Day and
a time for romance with
new partners or for reromancing
more familiar
ones. But where in the
Kansai's sprawling concrete
do you go for
cherished moments?
Spain had its fictional Don Juan; Italy, its Casanova; Egypt, its Antony and
Cleopatra. Lovers worldwide are beckoned to kiss under the Bridge of Sighs
at dusk in Venice; the entire city of Paris - according to movies like Amelie,
anyway - is a haven for lovers, and loves won and lost.
But what of Kansai? Romance probably isn't the first thing people think of
when Kansai comes to mind (more likely, takoyaki), which certainly doesn't
mean that there's no spirit of the stuff in the area. Quite the contrary: while
it's not quite a key destination for honeymooners, there's plenty of love in
the air, if one knows where to look. The following is a small sample of some
of Kansai's more famous spots for lovers, as well as a few of the area's more
famous lovers, historical and current. Casanova never made it to Osaka, but
he probably would have had a swell time, if he'd managed the trip.
Nara
History tells of the very illicit, 8th century affair between the nation's ruling
Empress Shotoku and a Buddhist monk named Dokyo, whom Shotoku gave
much more political power (and personal attention) than religious figures of
the day commonly received. Rumors accused the pair, power-hungry, of
having the rightful successor to the Nara throne (the nation's capital back
then) banished and subsequently killed; Shotoku's death in 770 ended the
relationship (as well as Dokyo's ambitions) for good, however, and opportunistic
court officials used the lovers' story as a weak excuse to keep women
away from the throne for a long, long time after that.
The romantic in us likes to believe that when Shotoku and Dokyo weren't
plotting the violent deaths of their political enemies, they were out enjoying
the fresh air and gentle scenery of Nara Park, a popular a dating spot as any in
Kansai. The approach to the park offers ample shopping and dining opportunities
– innumerable couples have perused the tucked-away, half-hidden cafes
the area offers, and "discovered" one for their own - and the stroll through
the park proper in afternoon weather, hand-feeding the deer and enjoying the
koi of Nara Museum, makes for a great (and very cheap) date.
Osaka
One of the more plainly bizarre comedy sketches that occasionally pops up on
TV centers around "typical American teen couple Dylan and Catherine", the
creation of a pair of Japanese entertainers - Nadagi Takeshi and comedienne
Tomochika - who are, according to one online interpretation, mocking Japan-
ese stereotypes of American culture (which, ironically, is fairly stereotyped
itself in Beverly Hills, 90210, the show Takeshi and Tomochika draw on for
inspiration). The sketch's very famous side story is that the pair is a real-life
couple, whose romance was made public in the midst of an Osaka comedy
competition in 2006.
Takeshi and Tomochika certainly aren't the first couple the City of 808 Bridges
has helped bring together; the streets of Osaka fairly sing with hook-ups,
break-ups and canoodling couples enjoying some of the city's more romantic
getaways. Romantic twosomes are constantly seen enjoying the robust skyline
views from the numerous Ferris wheels dotting the city (the "vertical" Ferris
wheel overlooking the Dotombori Bridge is a real winner), sightseeing spots
like the Umeda Sky Building and in any of the numerous high-elevation clubs,
bars and restaurants livening up area hotels. Besotted pairs wishing to remain
closer to the ground often opt for areas like Osaka Castle Park (cherry blossom
season is a real treat), Universal Studios Japan (no one ever gets too old for
Snoopy, apparently), Kaiyukan Aquarium and Tennoji Zoo.
A very key area for romance however, is revealed in the lengthy covered
shopping area that starts at the Dotombori Bridge and runs parallel to Midosuji
Street, through Shinsaibashi; the lines at the crepe stands alone are packed
with all the couples one could shake a stick at. Young lovers make ample use
of the astonishing number of print club booths in the area; older ones, the
varied furniture and jewelry shops. Everyone goes for UFO Catcher, however;
and there is much low-cost entertainment to be had in the area's neon-drunk
entertainment zones, watching women watching their men, trying to coax
grip-free electronic claws into picking up the exact correct stuffed animal.
The love is practically palpable (even over the din of the rest of the arcade).
Kobe
Yoshimoto Kogyo comedian Jinnai Tomonori and curvy TV personality Norika
Fujiwara unleashed a media firestorm when they invited the nation to follow
along with every moment of their wedding nuptials and post-ceremony festivities.
Their traditional Shinto wedding at the Ikuta Shrine in Kobe set hearts
aflutter (and newspapers agog at Fujiwara's extraordinarily ornate kimono),
and reminded viewers just how nice Kobe can be for romance.
Ikuta, of course, is quite lovely to visit (if much more crowded these days),
though Kobe's more popular couples' spots trend toward the more secular.
Opportunities abound in Kobe for lovers to sicken themselves on tarts, cakes,
cream puffs and the like; Sweets Paradise, 90 minutes of all-you-can-eat cake,
obviously has the most bang for the buck, though many couples opt for quieter
shops like Sannomiya's lovely Konig's Krone.
There's Chinatown, of course, and Kobe's dizzying array of museums; how-
ever, the spot for romance in the city is the dazzlingly Meriken Park, where
the lights after sunset are perfect at setting The Mood. A wealth of harborside
restaurants and bars offers patrons a fine view of the surrounding area
- Kobe Tower to the left, the wobbly, white Jell-o of the Oriental Hotel
straight ahead, and the occasional light-festooned dinner cruise ships that
dock mere paces ahead. A very classy alternative, after UFO Catcher gets old.
Kyoto
Information is scarce, unfortunately, regarding exactly where Kyoto native –
and ero-kawaii (sexy-cute) pop star – Koda Kumi takes boyfriends if and when
she returns with them to the old hometown. Still, ample opportunity abounds
for Ms. Koda (who may be single again anyway, for all we know) in Kyoto, a
city with an embarrassment of riches when it comes to romantic real estate.
Couples flock to the cozy, charming streets and back-alleyways of districts
like Gion, and Pontocho, with its vast array of atmospheric restaurants.
Warmer weather finds the banks of the Kamo River saturated with men and
women (and more than a few yippy dogs) picnicking and watching the trails
of the ducks in the water. The Excelsior Café kitty-corner to Shijo's Hankyu
Department Store remains a popular spot for lazy coffee drinking and inadvertent
hand-holding, and the OPA mall, nearby, is a festival of young love
(as well as some of the most eye-popping fashions in the city).
Still, the best parts of Kyoto are also some of its oldest; and couples young
and old pilgrimage daily to what may be both the prime romantic spot and
the prime photo op in all of Kansai: the grand stage of Kiyomizu Temple, with
one's back to the thick, wooden fence, sloping trees of the area cascading all
around behind. It's very serene, very romantic and - even in the chilliest bits
of winter - a fine place to take a boyfriend, girlfriend, wife, husband, friend,
family member, or, preferably sometimes, only yourself.
Text: Jeff Lo • Photo: KS
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