A hike like no other
Yatsubuchi-no-taki, Shiga

Located within the Hira-san mountain range in Shiga, the 14 kms Yatsubuchi-no-taki trail is one of the most daring and exhilarating hikes in Kansai.

Late last year, I participated in my first event with International Outdoor Club. The club's annual fall event was a two-day hike up the Yatsubuchi-no-taki trail to Buna-ga-take, a 1,214 metre mountain in Shiga. After leaving our overnight bags at the lodge in Gulliver Mura we headed directly to the Yatsubuchi-no-taki trail. Designated one of the One Hundred Best Falls in Japan, the waterfall that the Yatsubuchi-no-taki trail follows is actually comprised of eight major waterfalls (Uodomenofuchi, Shojigafuchi, Karatonofuchi, Osuribachi, Kosuribachi, Byobugafuchi, Kibunegabuchi and Shichihengaeshifuchi) and many smaller ones.

Lead by Koji-san, 23, adventurous hikers were soon using a series of ropes, chains, yellow handholds, and rickety old ladders to challenge the Yatsubuchi-no-taki trail. Before long, we passed the trail's landmark: a large stone at the pool beneath Osuribachi, bearing strange inscriptions that read, right to left, Yatsubuchi.

My fellow trekkers and I continued up the gorge following the flowing waters, crossing the log bridges and climbing over the boulders to Byobugafuchi. This is where the real fun began, as we had to rappel down a chain to the pool just below Kibunega- buchi, definitely the most impressive falls in the gorge. The chains aided us cross the rocks over the river and with the help of a ladder and more metal chains we triumphantly climbed to the top of the 50 metre falls.

As the climb levelled out, we crossed over a series of boulders, past the last major waterfall Shichihengaeshifuchi, and followed the trail towards Buna-ga-take, one of Japan's 200 Meizan (200 Famous Mountains). It was getting dark, and unfortunately we didn't have enough time to reach the summit. So, after a quick glance at Lake Biwa below, we headed back down the trail and returned to our base camp.

On day two we rejoined the Yatsubuchi-no-taki trail by hiking to the summit of Oishi from Gulliver Mura and then followed the ridge, traversing various minor peaks before descending Shishiga- tani to the famous Yamamomo-no-taki. The trail conveniently ended at JR Kitakomatsu station, and before we knew it we were seated on the special rapid train back to civilization.

During these two days in Shiga, we were well rewarded for all of our hiking, climbing, rappelling and determination with mes- merizing waterfalls, lush moss covered rocks, brightly coloured autumn leaves and outstanding views of Lake Biwa.

Although hiking in the Hira-san mountain range can be done year-round, the Yatsubuchi-no-taki trail can be done from early April to late November. In spring and summer the rocks across the canyon are covered with rhododendrons, fringe-bell, azalea and other wild flowers. In autumn, the bright autumn leaves offer colourful seasonal views. Unless you are an experienced ice-climber with proper equipment, it isn't recommended that you attempt this hike in the winter. Be aware that after heavy rain the water level is high.

Text & photos: Laura Markslag