Small is beautiful
Taketomi Island, Okinawa
With a population of about 350 and a coastline of nine kms, the Okinawan island of
Taketomi is very small. But what it lacks in size, it more than makes up for in beauty.
 Taketomi Island has quaint sandy streets
instead of grey tarmac motorways, pretty
one-storey houses rather than towering
apartment blocks, and alluring white sandy
beaches as opposed to noisy pachinko
parlours. And the only salarymen you'll
find there will be the ones from the main-
land who've come to get rid of stress.
Situated at the far south western end
of the Japanese archipelago, the island is
closer to Taipei than it is to Tokyo. Fortu-
nately, Taketomi escaped damage during
World War II and was also untouched by
the rapid building development that trans-
formed much of Japan in later years.
The residents are rightly proud of their
picturesque island and stringent rules are
in place to preserve it. This means that any
new buildings must be constructed in the
traditional style, so houses cannot consist
of more than one storey and roofs must
be built with red clay tiles. As a result, the
island is widely regarded as an exquisite
example of a traditional Okinawan village.
Access to Taketomi is via nearby Ishigaki
Island, the main travel hub in the region
for domestic flights. Taketomi is only ten
minutes from Ishigaki by boat, and most
people spend a day enjoying the scenery
or lazing on the beach before heading
back. For most visitors, a day is an ade-
quate amount of time to spend there, but
for those wanting to indulge a bit more in
the peace and quiet, there are plenty of
minshuku more than happy to put you up
for around ¥4,000 a night.
Bicycles are by far the best way to see
the island. It's relatively flat, the roads are
safe and there's nothing like feeling the
wind in your hair as you glide down a
narrow lane to the beach surrounded by
clouds of butterflies.
Exploring the island on foot means you
might not get to see as much as you'd
like, but you'll probably get a lot more
done than if you take a ride with a water
buffalo - though it can be a fun thing to
try. Relax in a cart while the buffalo pulls
you lazily through the streets. If you're
really lucky, you might have a musician
on board treating you to some traditional
music on a sanshin, the three-stringed
instrument famous in Okinawa.
From the village to the coast is an effort-
less bike ride that takes no time at all. A
popular destination is Kaiji beach, famous
for its hoshizuna (star sand). Spend some
time here sifting through the grains of
sand and if you're lucky you'll find in your
hand some miniscule star-shaped objects.
These are the remains of tiny marine
organisms that once lived on the bed of
the ocean and hunting for them on Kaiji
beach is popular with visiting children and
adults alike. Not far from Kaiji beach is
Kondoi beach, a hit with snorkellers thanks
to its crystal clear waters. The beach also
has shower and washroom facilities and is
probably the most popular beach on the
island for bathers.
It'd be a sin to leave Taketomi without
trying the food. There are several familyrun
places to choose from, mostly in the
village. Goya chanpuru, a delicious
Okinawan vegetable and tofu dish,
is a favourite and makes an ideal lunch.
Kuruma-ebi (a type of shrimp), a local
delicacy, also features on many menus.
Text & photos: Trevor Mogg
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