White out and about
Kansai is blessed with good looks,
but under the winter snow it can be quite spectacular.
Last February, Osaka city was treated to its first official snowfall of the 21st century. Sure there have been countless cases
of flurries and even a squall or two, but nothing compared to what transpired on a frigid Saturday morning just before
Valentine's day, as the city was transformed into a magical winter paradise. Well, at least for a half a day until everything
melted. If history decides to repeat itself this year, grab the cameras and head outdoors to some of the most striking
places in the Kansai to take in nature's glory.
Kyoto
Although unbearably hot in the summer, the valley that houses
Kyoto city cools off briskly during the shorter days of the year,
and hosts a surprisingly large number of snowstorms. The key
to experiencing them is the timing, so if you happen to be in
town when the flakes are falling you'll have an abundance of
breathtaking options:
Ohara
While most tourists flock to the valley in the early summer
to take in the moss blankets of Sanzen-in temple, I strongly
recommend a visit in the off-season to this quaint village north
of Kyoto city. The walk between the bus stop and the aforementioned
temple is a step back in time, with row upon row of
traditional shops selling large, folding paper umbrellas. These
bright red souvenirs shine wonderfully against a pure white
backdrop of snow. Once at the temple, have a quick stroll
around and reward yourself with a steaming cup of green tea
from one of the many teahouses. In addition to Sanzen-in,
a stroll over to the convent Jakko-in should not be missed.
Retrace your steps to the bus stop and cross the street, following
the signs to the temple. Unfortunately, Jakko-in was the target
of an arson attack in the year 2000, but extensive restoration
work is now complete. Ohara is easily accessible as a day trip
from Kyoto, but if you really want to experience something
special, then consider an overnight stay at Ohara-sansou.
The traditional mountain villa is open year round and features
excellent Japanese cuisine and a soothing hot spring bath.
Getting there and away:
There are Ohara-bound buses from JR Kyoto station, Keihan
Demachiyanagi station, and Kokusai-kaikan station at the end
of the Karamatsu subway line. From the latter station, take bus
number 19, which leaves twice an hour for the 20-minute journey.
Ohara-sansou: www.ohara-sansou.com/english/
Uji
What a better way to frolic in the snow than to visit the place
that you see everyday but never pay attention to? That's right,
we're talking about Byodoin, the temple featured on the back
of the ¥10 coin. The mirror-like reflections of the snow covered
main hall in the surrounding pond on a crystal clear winter
morning are absolutely breathtaking. Follow it up with a visit
to the Tale of Genji museum across the river and you're in for
one unforgettable day trip.
Getting there and away:
Take the Keihan line to Uji, changing trains at Chushojima station.
Alternatively, you can take a JR train from Kyoto station. All of the
sites are within walking distance, so wear shoes with proper traction
when snow and ice are on the ground.
Kinkakuji temple
No write-up of winter strolls would be complete without
mentioning this place on everyone's wish list. Stunning it is in
snow, but don't expect peace, tranquility or an easy way to get
there, as Kyoto traffic grinds to a halt during inclement weather.
Hyogo
 Most of the Japanese outdoor enthusiasts I've met seem to
worship Mt. Rokko, but in all my years I have yet to discover
the deeply hidden beauty of the place, probably because it is
concealed under a thick layer of concrete. Therefore, in order
to do the prefecture justice, I am advocating a visit to an area
teeming with meters of fresh powder: Hachi-kogen
Hachi-kogen
Home to three mid-sized ski resorts, the plateau at the foot of
Hyogo's highest peak is a viable alternative for powder hounds
who don't have the time or money to venture to the snow capital
Nagano. If visiting after a large storm, then the conditions are
just as good as the more famous resorts in Japan. The best way
to visit is a bus package tour, which includes transport to and
from the resort as well as lift tickets and rental gear. All of the
domestic travel agencies can give you the lowdown and set you
up with a reasonably priced weekend adventure.
Nara
Do you remember the deleted scene from the 1942 classic
where Bambi goes stumbling through a blizzard in search of his
recently deceased mother? Ok, so most of you probably don't
own the DVD, but if you're interested in recreating this long lost
scene (minus the bloodshed), then head on over to Nara Park
any time nature delivers its arctic gift.
Nara Park
Todaiji is the obvious place to start, but don't forget to squeeze
Kasuga Taisha into the itinerary. Kasuga shrine, with its bright
orange color scheme and decorative array of lanterns, glows
gleefully with a fresh coating of snow. All of this outstanding
scenery would look brilliant atop adjacent Mt. Wakakusa, but
unfortunately the mountain is closed from November to March
because of the annual fire festival in January. Nara doesn't host
as many annual coatings of snow as nearby Kyoto, which makes
it all the more magical if you've timed it right.
Koya-san
 While technically located in Wakayama Prefecture, this ancient
Buddhist mountain retreat averages a yearly snowfall total of
around 40cm, offering more chances to experience winter's
magical touch than other tourist stops. In addition, there's a
surprising lack of visitors during the first frigid months of the
year, making Koya-san the ultimate weekend getaway. The
temple lodgings, while numbingly cold, are open throughout
the year and offer a chance to sample traditional vegetarian
fare. The snowfall keeps the Nankai employees busy shoveling
powder off the tracks, thereby ensuring the cable car can conti-
nue running every day of the year. Whatever you do, avoid the
first four days of the New Year, when the mountain gets overrun
with worshippers flocking to pray for a successful year.
Getting there:
From Nankai Namba station, take the Nankai Koya line to Gokurakubashi
and change to the cable car. If you are keen on walking to the
top, then exit the station, walk downhill under the tracks and cross
the orange bridge on your left. There's a nice path that parallels the
cable car, but you'll need some crampons if there is any snow and
ice. From the top of the cable car, a bus will whisk you into the town
center.
Accommodation information: www.shukubo.jp/eng/
Osaka
If we ever get snow again that stays on the ground for more than
30 seconds, then stop whatever you're doing and run, and I do
mean sprint, on over to Osaka castle to photograph the extremely
rare event. Those photos may be worth something someday,
especially if the weather keeps following the recent trends of
the last few decades.
Getting there:
Loop line, JR Morinomiya stn, or Osakajokoen stn • Subway Tanimachi
/Chuo lines, Tanimachi 4-chome stn • Keihan Temmabashi stn
Text: Wes Lang • Photos: Jatin Banker
|
