Myokenguchi

On a peaceful mountain-top, just to the north of Osaka, traditional and modern temples sit side by side

The village of Myokenguchi appears to close down completely from December until early spring, but from March 20th, hikers, flower lovers and people looking for a break from the city make a pilgrimage to the little-known town. Within easy reach of Osaka on the Hankyu line, this sleepy village is open to guests at the best times of the year when visitors can enjoy foliage in its splendor and escape the muggy heat.

Myokenguchi is about a 30-minutes from Hankyu Kawanishi-Noseguchi station. The 12-kilometer train line has been running for 50 years and billboard-sized pictures of the line at some of the stations show how it has changed over the decades. Today it appears more people are using the freeway as cars outnumber passengers on the train, and number of blank billboards signals the advertisers who have abandoned the train line.

Modern wickets at the end of the line seem anachronistic when compared to the shops and restaurants. A small store dedicated to religious icons is situated next to a convenience store with mostly empty shelves. Some life is breathed into the area by hand painted signs for some restaurants and a cheerful farmer selling fresh produce.

Most people getting off at the station trek half an hour to the cable car which itself runs half a kilometer to the plateau of Myokensan. The cable car is just as old as the train line and takes about five minutes to get to the top; some visitors opt to hike up to the clearing along the zigzagging trails. Both routes pass by the forest which is the source of timber used to make charcoal, one of the specialties of the region.

The plateau is likely a welcome sight to hikers, as is the gurgling fresh spring water pouring from several taps. Before the discovery of spring water in the ’90s, the mountain was best known its temples near the peak, accessed by more hiking trails or, for the less physically motivated, a lift system that starts near the taps. Kabuki actors used to travel to the top of the mountain from the entertainment districts of Kyoto and Osaka wishing for luck in their careers. Many traditional artists, movie stars and TV actors still make the journey to the top and according to custom, ask to be as beautiful as the view from the temple.

One of the more unusual practices of the temple is the blessing of cars and drivers. For ¥5,000 priests sprinkle salt over the wheels of the car and briskly rub the driver down with branches. A small altar and tent are usually set up near the parking lot for the ceremony, which is usually about 20 minutes long.
The temple appears to put religious service before tourism, unlike some of the more famous temples and shrines in Kyoto. Inside the contemporary steel and glass temple are several meeting rooms and meditation areas along with an elaborate glass-floored altar, which is closed to visitors. The piped-in wind instruments and chimes create an odd feeling in the star-shaped building. A souvenir shop in the basement level offers prayer beads, religious tomes, postcards and photo books that show the mountain and area in all four seasons.

Surrounding the modern building are more traditional temples. The older temple complex houses several small altars, a souvenir shop and restaurant. Monks also pray here daily for peace on Earth and their chants are easily heard around the mountain-top when the weather is good.

Most mountains claim to be beautiful year round, but Myokenguchi knows its limitations and admits the wintry shortcomings. Access to the mountain is limited to the best seasons only: spring, summer and fall.

Text and photos: Charlie Harrington